To the North We Go...Almost

Panmunjom, officially called the Joint Security Area (JSA), is on the west portion of the 155-mile long Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) on the military demarcation line dividing North and South Korea. The UN forces hold jurisdiction over JSA. These forces stay in Camp Bonifas, named after Captain Arthur Bonifas who was killed (along with Lt. Barrett) at JSA by North Korean soldiers in 1976.

Joining the Panmunjom tour, you will be taken to the Odusan Unification Observatory, Imjingak Park, Camp Bonifas (where no photos are allowed), and JSA.

At the Odusan Unification Observatory...

 

Before entering the building, you will spot this altar, built as a place of prayer for North Koreans who have abandoned their homes to take refuge in the South during the war and now wish to return home.

 

At the outdoor observatory, North Korea can be seen just across the Han River. You can drop coins into the binoculars to check out what's going on in the north. The map in the observatory will help you locate the Kim Il Sung Memorial Hall, a cultural hall, an elementary school, and some mountains of North Korea.

At the exhibition hall, you will find bits and pieces of North Korean life: clothes, money, a classroom, a bedroom, etc. The above left photo is a classroom where a North Korean defector will talk about life in the north and will answer whatever questions you might have. The lady in black is our tour guide, and the one in brown coat is the NK defector. She tried to escape to China by swimming across a river, just 500m across, but was caught and was to be brought back to the north. Deciding she'd rather die than go back, she drank poison which made her sick and incapable of work. She was then brought to the Philippines to recover, before being sent to South Korea.

At the theater, prepare yourself for a short film entitled "Sell My Daughter for 100 won", a heartwrenching film about life in the north.

At Imjingak Park...

Imjingak Park was built to console Koreans from both sides who cannot return to their homeland because of the division of the country.

 

The 21-ton Peace Bell, made of bronze and tin, symbolizes the hope for peace and reunification of Korea. If you'd like to ring the bell to call for peace, you have to make a reservation at the tourist information center and shell out (why does one have to pay to ring for peace?) 10,000 won (per group/team/family). It can only be rung (three strikes) every hour from 10AM to 5PM.

 

You may also write your hopes and prayers for peace and unity on ribbons.

The Freedom Bridge, named after the prisoners of war who have crossed this bridge to return to their homeland.

A rusty steam locomotive stands in silence at Imjingak Park. It was derailed during the Korean War and is riddled with more than 1,000 bullet holes. (I did not count them, it was written on the description board.)

 At the Joint Security Area (JSA)...

Before the JSA tour, one must sign a declaration at their visitor's center.  Bottom line of the declaration: you are entering a hostile area and there is a possibility of injury or death as a result of enemy action; the UN Command, the USA, and the Republic of Korea can't guarantee the visitors' safety and are not accountable in the event of a hostile enemy act. Doesn't that scare you?

The closest one could get to North Korea is in this area.

Panmun Gak, the gray building seen in the above photo, is the office of North Korean guards. Photo above as seen from the Freedom House (no photo of Freedom House because it's not allowed).

Photo by Ayin Ersando

At the time of our visit, it was quiet on the north side. One lone soldier was standing on the steps of Panmun Gak looking thru his binoculars. According to our guide, it has been quiet since the death of Kim Jung Il in December 2011.

Inside the UN Command Military Armistice Commission Conference Building (above left) is the only time you can claim you have been to North Korea. Half of it lies in the North, and half on the South. The demarcation line (above right) as seen from inside the room.

Photo by Bee Chavez

When visitors from the south side enter the conference room, ROK (Republic of Korea) soldiers accompany them and stand in certain areas in a fighting stance. The door leading to the north side is closed.

The last stop at JSA is the Bridge of No Return. It crosses the demarcation line and was named such for the prisoners who were brought to the bridge were given the choice to remain or cross over to the North. In crossing the bridge, they were never allowed to return.

Read more about DMZ here.

Was this tour worth it? If you like learning about history and current events, then yes. A resounding yes. Sorry, this tour can't be DIY. You have to go thru a tour operator and there are only three companies authorized to enter the DMZ. Foreigners are required to give three days notice but citizens of certain countries (Afghanistan, Egypt, India, Indonesia, etc, see full list here) are required to have a background check and must submit a copy of their passport at least 4 days before the tour. Koreans need to apply for a permit at least two months (could go up to 6 months) in advance; this is for a thorough check ensuring that that person isn't there to try escape to the other side (which I think is a foolish plan since this is a heavily guarded area).

Panmunjom Tour details

• Available Tuesdays to Fridays, except holidays.
• Reservation required. Name, nationality, age, passport number, and color scan of passport must be provided 3 days before the desired visit since this is subject to screening and approval.
• Visitors must bring their passport during tour day.
• Tour fee is 77,000 won, which includes the bus transfers, guide, and lunch.

Tour itinerary

10:00 Depart from Lotte Hotel

10:50 Odusan Unification Observatory

12:20 Imjingak Park

12:40 Lunch

13:50 Passport check

14:30 Camp Bonifas and Joint Security Area (JSA)

16:30 Depart from JSA

17:30 Arrive at Lotte Hotel

Rules

• In the conference room, do not touch any equipment (microphones, flags, etc) belonging to the north.
• Do not speak with, make any gesture toward or in any way, approach or respond to personnel from the north.
• Ripped jeans, sleeveless shirts, mini skirts, shorts, military clothing, and slippers are not allowed.
• Shaggy or unkempt hair is not allowed too. 
• No cameras with over 90mm zoom lens.
• Children under 11 years are not allowed.
• Consumption of alcohol is strictly prohibited.

You can avail of the Panmunjom tour or choose other DMZ related tours at:  

Panmunjom Travel Center 

6th Floor Lotte Hotel

Sogong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul

02 771 5593

jsa33@korea.com


How to get to Lotte Hotel (meeting place for the Panmunjom tour):
Take the subway to Euljiro 1(il)-ga Station (line 2/green line) and look for the exit for Lotte Hotel. 


South Korea Series:

Tourist Visa to Korea

Random Things About Kimchiland
From One Point to Another
Homes Away From Home
My First Meal is Not Korean
You Will Never Go Hungry Here
To the North We Go...Almost (you're here!)
Strolling, Collecting Sights
A Dose of History: Gyeongbokgung
Double Dose of History: Changdeokgung & Huwon
Photo Stop: Bukchon Hanok Village
Care For Some Coffee?
Step Back in Time at the Folk Village
Trick Eye Museum
N Seoul Tower
What's in a (Business) Name? Korea
This Little Mustache Went to (Namdaemun) Market
At the Outskirts: Petite France and Namisum
Hunting for Cherry Blossoms at Yeuido Park
Can't Pronounce It So I Stuffed It in My Mouth
The Most Important Question 

You Will Never Go Hungry Here

While walking the streets of Seoul, I drooled over the food kiosks, tents, and minitrucks (if you're Filipino, you'd probably call it a "multicab") were selling. These stalls are called pojangmacha 포장마차.

This kiosk pojangmacha has tteokbokki 떡볶이 (rice cakes cooked in red chili pepper paste), pajeon 파전 (green onion pancake), kimbap 김밥 (rice rolled in seaweed), dumplings, hotdogs, pork skewers, and other things I could not identify. These go from 1000 to 6000 won (Php 40 to Php 240).

 

Tented pojangmachas usually appear at night. Go get drunk on soju 소주 (rice liquor) here.

Photo by: Bee Chavez

And here's a snackbar on wheels. This guy has set up his goodies on the bed of his minitruck. He has roasted chestnuts, dried squid, and beondegi 번데기 (roasted silkworm cocoons). The beondegi tasted...interesting. Nutty almost.

On the streets, your nose might lead you to this little umbrellaed cart selling pancakes stuffed with eggs.

Or you will do a double take at the sight of these waffles 와플 (with cream and syrup) while hurrying through a subway station. This crunchy, creamy, syrupy waffle sells for 1000 won (Php 40).

Or get tempted to try these siopao-looking things, which are really steamed mandu 만두 or dumplings stuffed with vegetables and minced meat. The steamed spicy mandu (600 won ~ Php 24) was so good, I regret having bought just one.

Photo by Ayin Ersando

Or be enticed by the steam coming out of this roadside eatery that offers noodles and mandu 만두 (dumplings). Our grumbling stomachs made us buy three kinds of mandu 만두: seafood and vegetable rolled dumplings (8 pcs for 4000 won ~ Php 160), steamed kimchi dumplings (3 pcs for 3000 won ~ Php 120), and fried vegetable dumplings (3 pcs for 3000 won ~ Php 120).

You will also find vendors selling fruits such as strawberries and grapes. Cheaper than buying these in the Philippines, so stuff yourself while you can.

Above two photos by Bee Chavez

Too lazy to go out for breakfast, too cold and tired to hunt for dinner after a long day of exploring, or running low on cash for a real meal, you can stop by a fastfood restaurant, such as Lotteria, or buy something quick from convenience stores, vending machines, and bakeshops dotting the streets and subway stations.

 A strawberry waffle (2000 won ~ Php 80) for breakfast at Lotteria. A tad bit expensive but I like waffles.

 

Blueberry yogurt (1300 won ~ Php 52) and instant noodles (900 won ~ Php 36) from a convenience store.

 

Drinks on the go: coffee (capuccino/latte/americano/green tea latte), softdrinks, juice, water. From 400 won (Php 16) to 1000 won (Php 40).

 

Breads are a bit expensive. From left to right: soybean bread (2000 won ~ Php 80), olive focaccia (2200 won ~ Php 88), and blueberry (1000 won ~ Php 40)  from random bakeshops I passed by. I absolutely loved the soybean bread (very filling) and olive focaccia (I am an olive hoarder).

And lastly, quick dinners I grabbed from the nearest convenience store:

• Ham sandwich (1600 won ~ Php 64) labeled as 듬뿍넣은햄 샌드 which literally translates to "plenty in ham sand". Yes, I agree, it did have plenty of ham in it!
• Spicy anchovy kimbap 매콤달콤멸치김밥 (1200 won ~ Php 48 and came with a free can of Pepsi). This kimbap was really delicious!
• Two triangle kimbap (samgak kimbap 삼극김밥) for 1000 won (Php 40). Flavors on my pack were spicy chicken 양념 치킨 and Jeonju bibim 전주비빔밥. If you love bibimbap then you'll like the Jeonju bibim kimbap.
• And a ready to eat dinner (3000 won ~ Php 120) I ate on the plane ride home. It had rice, kimchi, sausages, egg, pork, and vegetables. Not bad at all!

See? You will never go hungry on the streets of Seoul (as long as you have a few thousand won).

And not to worry, dear Reader, I also had time to sit in good old Korean restaurants but that deserves another post. Writing this has made me hungry, gotta go have a kimbap now.

South Korea Series:

Tourist Visa to Korea

Random Things About Kimchiland
From One Point to Another
Homes Away From Home
My First Meal is Not Korean
You Will Never Go Hungry Here (you're here!)
To the North We Go...Almost
Strolling, Collecting Sights

A Dose of History: Gyeongbokgung

Double Dose of History: Changdeokgung & Huwon

Photo Stop: Bukchon Hanok Village

Care For Some Coffee? 

Step Back in Time at the Folk Village

Trick Eye Museum

N Seoul Tower

What's in a (Business) Name? Korea

This Little Mustache Went to (Namdaemun) Market

At the Outskirts: Petite France and Namisum  

Hunting for Cherry Blossoms at Yeouido Park

Can't Pronounce It So I Stuffed It in My Mouth 

The Most Important Question 

My First Meal is Not Korean

Arriving in Incheon at 930PM and escaping immigration an hour later (no, I wasn't interrogated, I was just the last in line), I went looking for my first meal in Korea. You'd think I'd have something Korean. I'd think so too, but at the airport, an hour before midnight, I only had three choices: KFC, McDonald's, and Sanuki Bore. (These three are open 24 hours.) Eliminate anything that can be found in Cebu and an easy decision: Sanuki Bore. 

Sanuki Bore is located at the first floor of Incheon International Airport, near Arrival Hall C, and serves Japanese food. I settled for the Sanuki Udon (6,000 won ~ Php 240). The serving size to my eye is just enough, but halfway thru, man, did I feel full! Even in a Japanese restaurant, there's a hint of Korea: the side dishes. Before the udon came the radish kimchi (깍두 kkakdugi) and pickled radish (단무지 danmuji).

I will write more about my stomach's adventure in the next few days (or weeks or months) depending on my brain's ability to work.

How Sanuki Bore bore a hole thru Mustachio's pocket:

Sanuki Udon 6000 won (Php 240)

What about drinks? I just had water. And that's for free.

South Korea Series:

Tourist Visa to Korea

Random Things About Kimchiland
From One Point to Another
Homes Away From Home
My First Meal is Not Korean (you're here!)
You Will Never Go Hungry Here 
To the North We Go...Almost
Strolling, Collecting Sights

A Dose of History: Gyeongbokgung

Double Dose of History: Changdeokgung & Huwon

Photo Stop: Bukchon Hanok Village

Care For Some Coffee? 

Step Back in Time at the Folk Village

Trick Eye Museum

N Seoul Tower

What's in a (Business) Name? Korea

This Little Mustache Went to (Namdaemun) Market

At the Outskirts: Petite France and Namisum  

Hunting for Cherry Blossoms at Yeouido Park

Can't Pronounce It So I Stuffed It in My Mouth 

The Most Important Question