Itinerary and Expenses: 10D/10N Seoul and Sokcho, Autumn 2018

Like all my travel blogposts, I always include a list of places I went to and the expenses, in the hopes that it will, in some way, help you plan your trip.

Itinerary

Expenses

The average spend for this trip was around 63,000 won per day, a little over my usual budget of 55,000 won per day. And this was because my sister and I opted to get a private room instead of a dorm (my usual choice when traveling solo).

If you care to find other places to see and visit in South Korea, here are itineraries (and expenses) of my past trips to this country:

• 7D/7N | April 2012 | Seoul, Gyeonggi, Gangwon
• 5D/4N | November 2014 | Seoul, Gyeongsangbuk, Busan
• 8D/8N | April 2016 | Incheon, Seoul, Gyeonggi, Gyeongsangnam, Busan
• 9D/8N | March 2018 | Jeju, Gyeongsangbuk, Gyeongsangnam, Busan

Enjoy planning your trip!

Sokcho+Seoul+Gwangju, Autumn 2018
Itinerary and Expenses: 10D/10N Seoul and Sokcho (you're here!)

Sokcho, Gangwon-do
Sokcho Accommodation: With U Hotel & Guesthouse
See Sokcho
Seoraksan National Park
Seoul
Seoul Accommodation: Hostel Tommy
Finding Solace in the Midst of Seoul's Urban Jungle
Art Museums in Seoul
Food for the Seoul
Unhyeongung Palace, Cheong Wa Dae, Jogyesa Temple
Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do
UNESCO World Heritage: Namhansanseong Fortress

UNESCO World Heritage: Namhansanseong Fortress

South Korea currently has fourteen UNESCO World Heritage Sites, two of which are fortresses: Hwaseong Fortress and Namhansanseong Fortress. Both are located in the province of Gyeonggi, just south of Seoul.

I left Seoul around noon planning to have lunch at the Traditional Food Town in Namhansanseong and keeping the sandwich in my bag as an emergency snack for the hike around the fortress. That was mistake number one. Mistake number two was going there on an autumn Saturday. I honestly did not expect Namhansanseong to be so popular. I was stuck in a warm bus crammed with passengers, all the while standing and holding on to straphangers trying not to knock over everyone behind me as the bus moved along and stopped and moved along and stopped on an incline. I don't know how long we were stuck in traffic but it felt like a very long time. I thought I was going to pass out from hunger!!! There was no way I would have the energy to look for food nor go on a hike! Bottom line: Go to Namhansanseong Fortress on a weekday and as early as you can!

Namhansanseong Fortress is 12.4 kilometers in length and is in the mountains, whereas Hwaseong Fortress is only 5.7 kilometers in length and is in the middle of the city. Each fortress has its own beauty. And I can easily see why Namhansanseong is so popular with the locals in autumn—it is surrounded by trees awash in beautiful autumn colors.

There are five hiking courses of varying lengths in Namhansanseong. The shortest one would take only an hour; the longest one would take thrice as long. I was so hungry that I did not care to follow any of the hiking courses. I just went to the nearest section of the fortress that I could find: Nammun or the South Gate, the grandest of the four gates of the fortress.

Nammun or South Gate

Near the South Gate, I plopped down on the first bench I saw with only one thought: wolf down my sandwich! As soon as I was sure the sandwich has stopped my body from wanting to faint, I commenced my hike from the South Gate to the West Gate by following the path along the fortress wall.

Following the path along the wall

Ugh, uphill!

The uphills sections, though not steep, seemed daunting to me and my half-filled stomach. But, I had no choice (I brought this on myself!), and so trudged on. I was rewarded with autumn colors, mountainside views, and city views. Very pretty indeed.

Autumn is my favorite season

Cityview

Following the path along the wall, I found a pavilion, a hidden gate, and Sueojangdae or the West Command Post. There used to be five military command posts around Namhansanseong and Sueojangdae is the only one that remains.

Sueojangdae or West Command Post

Much as I wanted to explore more of the fortress, I was pressed for time: it was almost 5PM. I took a path that would take me down to the roundabout where the bus stops are, passing by Namhansanseong Haenggung.

Sadly, Namhansanseong Haenggung was already closed. Namhansanseong Haeunggung served as a temporary palace in times of war. It is open Tuesdays to Sundays from 10AM to 5PM (closes at 6PM from April to October). Admission fee for the palace is 2000 won.

And because the queue for buses going back to Sangseong Station was too long and I did not want to miss the last bus (I had no idea what time the last bus would be)—I had to forgo, yet again, dinner at the Traditional Food Town.

Guess I will have to plan a visit to Namhansanseong Fortress again in the future!

Directions to Namhansanseong Fortress: Take the subway to Sanseong Station. Go to exit 2 and walk straight ahead for to the bus stop (about 100 meters). Take the bus #9 or #9-1 or #52 to Namhansanseong.

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.

Sokcho+Seoul+Gwangju, Autumn 2018
Itinerary and Expenses: 10D/10N Seoul and Sokcho
Sokcho, Gangwon-do
Sokcho Accommodation: With U Hotel & Guesthouse
See Sokcho
Seoraksan National Park
Seoul
Seoul Accommodation: Hostel Tommy
Finding Solace in the Midst of Seoul's Urban Jungle
Art Museums in Seoul
Food for the Seoul
Unhyeongung Palace, Cheong Wa Dae, Jogyesa Temple
Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do
UNESCO World Heritage: Namhansanseong Fortress (you're here!)

Day Trip to Suwon City in Gyeonggi Province

I took an hour-long subway ride to Suwon City (in the province of Gyeonggi), about 50 km south of Seoul, to cross off another UNESCO World Heritage Site on my list: Hwaseong Fortress.

Hwaseong Fortress
수원 화성
9AM to 5PM
KRW 1000
I took a bus from Suwon Station to Hwaseong Fortress. The bus driver dropped me off at the fortress' imposing south gate called Paldalmun.

Paldalmun

From there I searched for the street to the west of Paldalmun where I would find the ticket booth marking the start of the long and seemingly neverending incline of the fortress. I stared at it and asked myself what was I doing here.

Tell me again why I'm here

Since I had traveled so far to be here and had already paid the admission fee, I made my reluctant legs move. I slowly put one foot in front of the other, while many oldies in complete hiking attire overtook my fat ass.

Suwon City from Hwaseong Jangdae Command Post

The view from Changnyongmun (East Gate)

The fortress is 5.7 km long and without knowing it, I had already walked three quarters of it! Along the way, I found turrets, pavilions, sentry posts, command posts, bastions, observation towers, platforms, the imposing west, north, and east gates, and great views of the city within and beyond the fortress walls.

Something old surrounded by something new

What amazed me the most was that Suwon City has grown and transformed with the times while Hwaseong Fortress remains a beautiful reminder of the past (the fortress was built from 1794 to 1796, undergone destruction during the Korean War, and restoration in 1975).

Tip: If walking 5.7 kilometers is torture for you, you can ride the Hwaseong Train (KRW 1500, one way). There are only two stops between the start and end points, and once you get off, you cannot ride it again unless you buy a  new ticket.

Tip: You can try Gukgung (Korean traditional archery) at the fortress' Dongjangdae Command Post from 930AM to 430PM for KRW 2000 (10 arrows).


Hwaseong Haenggung Palace
화성행궁
9AM to 5PM
KRW 1500

There are several points along the fortress where one can exit. From somewhere near Seojangdae Command Post, I found a path leading to Hwaseong Haenggung Palace. A haenggung is a temporary palace and there are several haenggungs in South Korea. The Hwaseong Haenggung is the largest of all the haenggungs. It was built as a temporary palace for King Jeongjo when he visited his father's tomb nearby.

EcoMobility Village
I was walking along backstreets trying to find my way from the palace to another portion of the fortress, when I stumbled upon bicycle-themed sculptures, benches, and bike racks.

Haenggung-gil Craft Street
Another street that caught my eye and wasn't part of my itinerary was the street near the Hwaseong Fortress ticket booth. It's a short street of craft shops, but it wasn't the merchandise that I was drawn to (you know I am not into shopping), but the random art on the walls.

Walking the streets of Suwon City made me realize that I should have stayed a night here. There was more to this city than just the fortress:

• Suwon Hwaseong Museum – a museum about Hwaseong Fortress
• Suwon Museum – a museum about Suwon City and about Korean calligraphy
• Haewoojae Museum / Mr. Toilet House – a museum shaped like a toilet and all about toilets
• Noeulbit Observatory – located at the bell tower of Suwon Jeil Presbyterian Church
• Haenggung-dong Mural Village
• Suwon Chicken Street – chicken for lunch, for dinner, for snack
• Ji-dong Market Sundae Town – sundae...not the ice cream but the blood sausage
• Nammun Rodeo Street – shopping

Directions to Suwon City: Take Subway Line 1 or Bundang Line to Suwon Station, exit 4.
Directions to Hwaseong Fortress: From Suwon Station Exit 4, take bus 11 / 13 / 36 / 39 / 2-2 to Paldalmun.

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.

South Korea on Three

South Korea Countdown

Itinerary and Expenses

South Korea Solo: Tangible Essentials
Six Apps for a Smooth South Korea Trip
Incheon: Tail End of Cherry Blossom Season
Seoul Stays: Kam Guesthouse and Aroha Guesthouse
Seoul Food
Seoul: Songpa Naru Park and Banpo Hangang Park
Seoul: Wander Around City Hall Station
Seoul Art: Nanta!, Ihwa Mural Village, Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP)
Seoul World Heritage: Jongmyo Shrine, Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs
Gyeonggi: Village Walks in Paju City
Gyeonggi: Day Trip to Suwon City (you're here!)
Gyeongsangnam: Haeinsa Temple
Gyeongsangnam: Find My Name in Masan, Changwon City
Busan Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Garosugil
Busan: Beomeosa Temple
Busan: An Abundance

Village Walks in Paju City

I decided to ditch hopping on a bus for a 3-hour ride to a town southwest of Seoul and go somewhere closer instead: Paju City in the province of Gyeonggi. Paju City, less than 40 km northwest of Seoul and sits just south of the 38th parallel, is a city where I could village hop and be in two different countries (three if you count South Korea) all in one day.

English Village

경기영어마을

I transported myself from Seoul to England in three quarters of an hour. The English Village is actually an educational facility where Koreans can learn English. I arrived at the English Village at 10 in the morning and the introvert in me rejoiced at finding the place devoid of people save for four, all of whom worked at the village. I languidly strolled around the village, enjoying the low temperatures of the morning, and admiring the brick buildings around. It wasn't until an hour later when I've had my fill of England and was getting ready to leave, when English Village became alive with a group of kindergartners on a field trip.

Heyri Art Village

헤이리 예술마을

From the English Village, I navigated my way around the deserted streets to find Heyri Art Village. Heyri Art Village is just what it is: an art village. It is a sprawling area of art galleries, museums, restaurants, cafes, art shops, theaters. I did not enter any museum or art gallery but contented myself with just walking around and looking at the unique architecture, out of this world displays, and numerous sculptures. Heyri Art Village is quite a large area, I don't think I got to see all of it.

Provence Village

프로방스 마을

From Heyri Art Village I walked over a kilometer to find Provence Village, a piece of France in South Korea. Provence Village is a small but charming cluster of little pastel colored buildings housing shops, restaurants, and cafes.

Directions to these Paju City villages: Take subway line 2 or line 6 to Hapjeong Station, exit 2. Take bus number 2200.

• English Village – English Village bus stop.
• Heyri Art Village – Heyri bus stop.
• Provence Village – Seongdong Intersection bus stop.

Tip: If you want to visit all three, get off at English Village and make your way to the other two villages (Heyri Art Village then Provence Village) on foot.

Other places to visit in Paju City (also on the route of bus 2200):
Paju Book City – bookstores and cafes
Paju Premium Outlets – shopping

South Korea on Three

South Korea Countdown

Itinerary and Expenses

South Korea Solo: Tangible Essentials
Six Apps for a Smooth South Korea Trip
Incheon: Tail End of Cherry Blossom Season
Seoul Stays: Kam Guesthouse and Aroha Guesthouse
Seoul Food
Seoul: Songpa Naru Park and Banpo Hangang Park
Seoul: Wander Around City Hall Station
Seoul Art: Nanta!, Ihwa Mural Village, Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP)
Seoul World Heritage: Jongmyo Shrine, Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs
Gyeonggi: Village Walks in Paju City (you're here!)
Gyeonggi: Day Trip to Suwon City
Gyeongsangnam: Haeinsa Temple
Gyeongsangnam: Find My Name in Masan, Changwon City
Busan Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Garosugil
Busan: Beomeosa Temple
Busan: An Abundance

Eight Days in South Korea

How I Spent My Eight Days in South Korea.

In short, my itinerary.

Click to enlarge

How Much I Spent for My Eight Days in South Korea.

In short, my expenses.

Click to enlarge

Like my previous posts about expenses, I did not include the airfare as I usually buy my tickets six to twelve months in advance, during airline promotions. Processing the visa would cost nothing if you have a Korean Consulate in your area. If you don't, then you'd have to process your visa through a travel agency who would charge a processing fee, of course.

Accommodation. I saved on accommodation by staying in dorms (four nights in Kam Guesthouse in Seoul and two nights in Sum Guesthouse Garosugil in Busan), spending about Php 550/night for a dorm bed (with breakfast). Most dorm beds would cost Php 800 to Php 1200/night. Then deciding I wanted some peace and quiet for a few days, I doubled my budget for accommodations and spent Php 1100/night for a single room at Aroha Guesthouse.

Transportation. I took the subway and the bus to go around. The only time I splurged was for the KTX (high speed train) to get to Daegu from Seoul. Daegu is 237 km south of Seoul and would take about 4 hours by bus. By KTX, it only takes half the time (2 hours).

Food. I took advantage of the free breakfast offered at the hostels I was staying in. For the rest of the day's meals, I would eat wherever I found food...from convenience stores, streetfood stalls, some restaurants. I spent an average of Php 760 per day (lunch, snacks, dinner). But I would advise to allocate at least KRW 30,000 (about Php 1300) a day for food.

Tour. For this trip, I spent most of my days walking around parks, temples, villages. I skipped the famous spots that I had been to, like Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Bukchon Hanok Village, and N Seoul Tower. (Mind you, these are places not to miss for first timers.) 

Others. For the first time in all my travels, I decided to rent a pocket wifi. Though it would be my third time in the country, I was planning to go to cities I was unfamiliar with. The pocket wifi proved very useful.

There you have it. Eight days in South Korea has made my wallet poorer but has made my little memory box a little bit heavier. And no, I am still not done with my exploration of this country. I hope to keep coming back until I see every nook and cranny of South Korea.

South Korea on Three
South Korea Countdown
Itinerary and Expenses (you're here!)
South Korea Solo: Tangible Essentials
Six Apps for a Smooth South Korea Trip
Incheon: Tail End of Cherry Blossom Season
Seoul Stays: Kam Guesthouse and Aroha Guesthouse
Seoul Food
Seoul: Songpa Naru Park and Banpo Hangang Park
Seoul: Wander Around City Hall Station
Seoul Art: Nanta!, Ihwa Mural Village, Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP)
Seoul World Heritage: Jongmyo Shrine, Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs
Gyeonggi: Village Walks in Paju City
Gyeonggi: Day Trip to Suwon City
Gyeongsangnam: Haeinsa Temple
Gyeongsangnam: Find My Name in Masan, Changwon City
Busan Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Garosugil
Busan: Beomeosa Temple
Busan: An Abundance

The Most Important Question

...is "How much?" Unless you're a millionaire then that won't matter. But for us budget travelers that is the number one question.

So can you afford a trip to Seoul? If you're not too picky and just make an effort to save some money, you definitely can! Here's a breakdown of my expenses. Airfare, travel agency visa processing service fee (if you're a long way from Manila where the consulate is) and shopping not included since I got my ticket at a low promo price and shopping really depends on you. Also, I spent an average of 10,500 won per day for food, which is unrealistic (breakfast was mostly convenience store food and friends treated me to 4 meals). Best to budget at least 20,000 won per day for food, safest would be 30,000 per day.

Gone in 7 days/7 nights (exchange rate in 2012 was Php0.039 for every Krw1)

The end. Gotta go work my butt off to repair this big hole in my pocket.

나중에 봬요, 친구!
Najunge bwaeyo, chingu!
See you later, friend!

South Korea Series:

Tourist Visa to Korea

Random Things About Kimchiland

From One Point to Another

Homes Away From Home

My First Meal is Not Korean

You Will Never Go Hungry Here 

To the North We Go...Almost

Strolling, Collecting Sights 

A Dose of History: Gyeongbokgung

Double Dose of History: Changdeokgung & Huwon

Photo Stop: Bukchon Hanok Village

Care For Some Coffee?

Step Back in Time at the Folk Village

Trick Eye Museum

N Seoul Tower

What's in a (Business) Name? Korea
This Little Mustache Went to (Namdaemun) Market
At the Outskirts: Petite France and Namisum
Hunting for Cherry Blossoms at Yeouido Park
Can't Pronounce It So I Stuffed It in My Mouth
The Most Important Question (the end!) 

At the Outskirts: Petite France and Namisum

In the fringes of Gyeonggi province, more than an hour and a half by subway from Seoul, lie Petite France and Namisum (Nami Island).

Petite France, as the name suggests, is a small patch of France in this Asian country. Quite out of place huh? I have no idea who came up with this idea and why, but it is a welcome sight on the countryside. If you are a fan of the book "The Little Prince" by Antoine de Saint-Exupery, you'd probably want to give Petite France a visit.

A piece of France in Korea

This little piece of France is home to one traditional French residence built 150 years ago. It was transferred from France and rebuilt with all its components (ceiling, windows, furniture, etc).

A traditional French house

 

Inside the house

In this little French village, you can also find a gallery of puppets, dolls, and sculptures; a memorial hall for the author of The Little Prince, though all the writings are in Korean; Orgel House where you can find old music boxes; a marionette theater; and a bistro. If you'd like to stay a night, they also have guest houses.

Illustrations for the book "The Little Prince"

The little prince's rose and random things I found around Petite France.

Petite France

616 Goseong-ri, Cheongpyeong-myeon, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do 
Find your way: Take the subway to Cheongpyeong station (Gyeongchun line). Walk to Cheongpyeong bus terminal (see map below). Get on the bus for Goseong-ri (do take note of the bus schedule below).

Admission fee: 8,000 won

Hours: 9AM to 6PM daily
 

 

Please follow the green line, not the red line which was our long and no map way.

 

Cheongpyeong bus terminal

 Yup, that's the bus for Geoseong-ri. Take note of 고성리 for the buses don't have English signs.

Bus schedule to (left column) and from (right column) Petite France

Two subway stations farther (Gapyeong station) and a taxi and ferry ride, you will reach Namisum (Nami Island).

Buy tickets for the island here

 

Ferry to the island

Photo by Bee Chavez

 

Inside the ferry

Welcome to Nami Island

This 400,000 square kilometer island is perfect for picnics.
 

Photo by Bee Chavez

I bet it is beautiful in autumn

You can explore the island on foot or by bike. There are single bikes, tandem bikes, and even four-seaters for rent.

There are also restaurants, galleries, and a song museum. If you want to spend a night on the island, there are different lodging options: cottages, bungalows, or rooms at the main building.

Namisum 
Find your way: Take the subway to Gapyeong station (Gyeongchun line). Take a taxi to Gapyeong wharf (will cost 2,800 won; return will cost 2,500 won). Then a quick ferry ride to the island.

Admission fee: 8,000 won (already includes the round trip ferry ride)

Ferry schedule: 730AM to 940PM daily. Ferry runs every 10-20 minutes from 9AM to 6PM, other than those times, it runs every 30 minutes.


South Korea Series
Tourist Visa to Korea
Random Things About Kimchiland
From One Point to Another
Homes Away From Home
My First Meal is Not Korean
You Will Never Go Hungry Here
To the North We Go...Almost 
Strolling, Collecting Sights
A Dose of History: Gyeongbokgung
Double Dose of History: Changdeokgung & Huwon
Photo Stop: Bukchon Hanok Village
Care For Some Coffee?
Step Back in Time at the Folk Village 
Trick Eye Museum
N Seoul Tower
What's in a (Business) Name? Korea
This Little Mustache Went to (Namdaemun) Market
At the Outskirts: Petite France and Namisum (you're here!)
Hunting for Cherry Blossoms at Yeuido Park
Can't Pronounce It So I Stuffed It in My Mouth
The Most Important Question