Puerto Princesa Because

Because my vacation was too short, I had very limited time to spend in Puerto Princesa City. Very little time that it only served as my transit point to San Vicente.

Sleep

Because my flight arrived at 3PM, too late for the last trip (at 2PM) to Brgy Port Barton in San Vicente, I had to stay the night in Puerto Princesa City.

Natua's Cabin

Airport Park, Rizal Avenue, Puerto Princesa City

0949 762 8998

Right beside the airport's exit gate was where I stayed. Not on the street, but at Natua's Cabin. I had made a reservation for a single fan room (Php 450) through text message a week before (with confirmation), but for some reason, when I arrived, the reservation wasn't on their book. Fortunately, a single fan room was still available. (Nearly had to stay on the street!) 

Natua's Cabins (left) and their restaurant (right)

(Photos above are from Natua's Cabin's facebook page)

Single Fan Room (Room 13)

They put me up in Room 13; the room and its en suite toilet and shower were clean. It had a wall fan, table, stool, a shelf (in lieu of a cabinet), and four outlets. It had a sliding window with a screen (for when you want to let some air in, but not the mosquitoes) and with too short a curtain (for when you want some privacy, but not really...since this cabin is a bit elevated, the bottom part of the window, where the curtain fails to cover, is eye level to people passing by). Towel (for a deposit of Php 100), soap, shampoo, and toilet paper were provided.

The only downside to that room was the threadbare bed sheet and the window screen which did not have a lock so I had to close the glass windows (which had a lock) at night. Luckily it was raining, and the room, with the fan on steady, was comfortably cool.

I stayed at Natua's Cabin a second time, a few days later, and was put up at Room 25. This was a corner room and had windows on two sides. It, too, was clean. The bed sheet this time was better and the curtains longer. But it still had a downside: the door knob was broken and I had to check it a couple times to be sure it locked properly.

So...Pros:

• Natua's Cabin is right beside the airport (very convenient if you have an early morning flight the next day!) but I hardly heard airplanes. 
• Rooms are clean, comfortable, and affordable. The single fan room costs Php 450 a night; single AC room at Php 800.
• They have a restaurant.
• WiFi is available at the restaurant.
• After check out, you may leave your bags at the reception.

And Cons:

• Not all rooms are perfect: bed sheet may be threadbare, doorknob might be broken, curtain may be too short.
• Inconsistent: It is stated in the website that breakfast is included, but when I got there they said breakfast isn't included for the room I booked.
• WiFi signal at the cabins is either weak or nonexistent.
• When it rains, you will need an umbrella to stay dry when going from the reception/restaurant to the cabins and vice versa.

Eat

Because my time in Puerto Princesa was too short to go on a Honda Bay Tour (and I had already done the City Tour years ago), I killed time in Puerto Princesa by eating.

KaLui Restaurant

369 Rizal Avenue, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan

(048) 433 2580 / 0928 753 9621

Monday to Saturday

Lunch 11AM to 2PM

Dinner 6PM to 1030PM

online@kaluirestaurant.com 

Whenever I am in Puerto Princesa, a meal at KaLui is a must on my to-do list. Since KaLui Restaurant is always fully booked, I remembered to make a reservation through email to secure my seat at this popular restaurant. I won't be writing about this visit's meal, but if you want to know more about the restaurant, please go ahead and read about my 2014 visit. (Nothing much has changed since then except for the price—everything on the menu has gone up by about Php 30.)

Imas Vegetarian Restaurant

46 Fernandez St., Puerto Princesa City

0939 916 1524 

Saturday to Thursday 11AM to 9PM

Friday 11AM to 3PM

So as not to feel guilty for doing nothing but eat, I went for healthy food at Imas Vegetarian Restaurant. I ordered tempeh (Php 100), grilled mushroom and eggplant sandwich (Php 120), and calamansi juice (Php 70). When I asked the server what tempeh was she only said fermented soy beans. It didn't sound appealing, but I ordered it anyway. And I am glad I did. It turned out to be soy fries (or something like that) and tasted interesting...in fact, I loved it, and I kept popping it into my mouth 'til my plate was clean. As for the sandwich, I loved the smokiness of the grilled mushroom and eggplant. Plus they weren't stingy with the sandwich filling.

Rene's Saigon

Rizal Avenue Extension, Puerto Princesa City

(048) 433 5255

Tuesday to Sunday 9AM to 830PM

I visited Rene's Saigon on a rainy morning with my stomach rumbling for bahn mi (french bread sandwich) and a hot noodle soup. Unfortunately, the former was unavailable as they still had to bake their bread (I guess it is best to visit them after 3PM for bahn mi cravings). For only Php 80, the hot beef stew noodle soup, though the noodles were too sticky and clumpy, sure hit the spot that rainy morning.

Go

Because I had to go to Port Barton the next day, I had to catch a van ride at San Jose Terminal. The terminal, some seven kilometers from the airport, is where vans and buses to different parts of Palawan, such as Taytay, Roxas, Port Barton, San Vicente Poblacion, El Nido, Rio Tuba, etc begin their journey.

The cheapest way to get to San Jose Terminal from the airport is to take a tricycle to Junction 1 (Php 8), then a jeepney (or "multicab" as the locals call it) to San Jose Terminal (the sign on the side of the jeepney/multicab would be San Jose/New Market/Terminal; the last stop is the San Jose Terminal; fare from Junction 1 to the terminal is Php 13). This tricycle and jeepney/multicab combo would only cost you Php 21. A more expensive option (if you're going solo) but without the hassle of transfers is to hire a tricycle (Php 70).

San Vicente Short:

In Transit: Puerto Princesa Because (you're here!)

A Mini Guide: Port Barton in San Vicente, Palawan

Visiting San Vicente Poblacion for Long Beach

Learn About Palawan at the Palawan Museum

For our few hours in Puerto Princesa City, we didn't have any specific plans, except to eat lunch at KaLui Restaurant (always on the itinerary no matter how many times we have been to Puerto Princesa City) before catching our flight home. With a few hours to waste in between breakfast and lunch, we decided to visit Palawan Museum, which was just a five–minute walk from where we were staying.

Palawan Museum

Old City Hall Building, Mendoza Park, Puerto Princesa City

Monday to Saturday 830AM to 12NN / 130PM to 5PM

Admission Fee

Php 50 adult

Php 40 senior citizen

Php 20 student

Php 10 children

Palawan Museum

This modest museum displays bits and pieces about Palawan. From information about Tabon Cave in Lipuun Point, Quezon, Palawan, where the oldest known human skeletal remains in the Philippines (Tabon Man) was found, and the Manunggul Jar, a secondary burial jar with a lid with two human figures representing two souls on a voyage to the afterlife, that was found in Manunggul Cave, also in Lipuun Point. To information about the indigenous peoples of Palawan—Tagbanua, Pala'wan, and Cuyunon—and their practices. And some information about Palawan's wildlife (depicted through paintings) such as the anteater, porcupine, Palawan hornbill, and stink badger or skunk (that could knock out a dog or a man with its fart!).

A replica of the Manunggul Jar.

You can find the original in the Museum of the Filipino People in Manila.

The peoples of Palawan

Photo by A.G. Desabelle

Paintings of Palawan's wildlife

Photo by Baktin Corporation

Palawan Museum is small, but as with almost every museum visit, one needs to have the patience to read some lengthy descriptions to get the most out of your visit.

Puerto Princesa Accommodation: Duchess Pension

Duchess Pension

107 E Valencia St. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan

(048) 433 2873 / (048) 723 0643 / (0919) 992-9360

info@duchesspensionpalawan.com

Duchess Pension is 3 kilometers from the airport or one tricycle ride away
Photo by Baktin Corporation

We didn't feel like dukes and duchesses when we walked in Duchess Pension. Nobody greeted us "Your Grace." Nobody carried our bags for us. And we all crammed into a 5–person room. But that is not Duchess Pension's fault. We chose to stay in a pension house after all, not a 5–star hotel. And we are not complaining.

Please excuse our mess

Duchess Pension met our simple needs: a clean room with a clean toilet. Our five–person room had a working air conditioner and a TV. The rate of Php 1750 also included breakfast. A very good deal.

The pension house at the time of our visit was quiet. It was either low season or everyone was out enjoying the sights and sounds of the island, such as the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center, Palawan Museum, Honda Bay, and Underground River (to name a few), which the pension house can also arrange for its guests.

When in Puerto Princesa, Don't Miss KaLui Restaurant

KaLui Restaurant

369 Rizal Avenue, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan

(048) 433 2580 / 0928 753 9621

Monday to Saturday

Lunch 11AM to 2PM

Dinner 6PM to 1030PM

When in Puerto Princesa City in Palawan, eat at KaLui, one of the city's best restaurants, so I have been told. That's if you can score a table.

On my first visit to Puerto Princesa, our big group dropped by KaLui around noon to book a table for dinner on the same day... but were told that a table would be free around 9PM. No discussion ensued, we all knew we would be starving by then. We drove away crestfallen.

A year later, I was going to find myself in Puerto Princesa City for a few hours. Not going to let this chance escape, I booked a table a week ahead, through email (online@kaluirestaurant.com) and was pleased to receive a quick response. The next thing to do was to pray that our flight won't get delayed, or else they'd release the table 15 minutes after the reserved time.

Our flight arrived ahead of schedule. (Thanks Mr Pilot, I bet you have a reservation at KaLui, too.) A short tricycle ride from the airport and we were deposited at the entrance of KaLui Restaurant. A shelf with all kinds of footwear was outside the dining area and we added ours to the pile. (This was the second restaurant I have been to that required guests to enter barefoot; the other one was in Siargao).

The easy breezy feel of the restaurant. The wood interiors. The low tables and pillows. The paintings and artsy stuff. The washrooms. Yes, even the washrooms deserve a visit—the girls swore they could stay in KaLui's washroom all day (even eat their lunch there? I don't think so).

But those were just bonuses. The highlight of this restaurant was, of course, the food. The fresh shrimps! In our sourness–just–right sinigang (Php245). In garlic and butter (Php215)—finger lickin' good, sorry KFC. The seafood sisig (Php215)! Which I could have eaten all by myself. The KaLui veggie plate (Php190)! A good mix of vegetables cooked in different ways. Came with a coconut bowl of fruits, too (plus two more complimentary fruit bowls!). And, not to forget, my tall, refreshing glass of soursop (guyabano) shake (Php70)!

Servings, from my observation, are good for 2-3 persons

(Click to enlarge)

All this for Php1645 (including 10% service charge) for seven persons. That's Php235 per person, which  was over my Php150 per meal budget, but worth the effort of booking a table (thank you for accepting email reservations, the money for long distance/cell phone calls was added to my Php150 budget), exposing my stinky feet to all the diners (this might have caused them to gag throughout their meal while I enjoyed mine), and cutting down my budget for the next two meals (KaLui, you really know your way around...I am stuffed and can now afford to go on a diet...for the next two meals).

Palawan on the Pocket

I did not write about the trip chronologically. I was moving backward, writing about Puerto Princesa first, then Sabang, and, lastly, El Nido. The real sequence of events is found below:

Our six-day itinerary

The above itinerary can be squeezed into four tight days if you really want to. It's possible, just travel from Puerto Princesa to El Nido at night and from El Nido to Sabang early in the morning. And be really tired during the tours.

Since I am not an "Amazing Race" kind of person, I took it slow with nine friends, consumed six days, with a wallet that got thinner by the day.

Palawan on the pocket. Figures are all in Philippine pesos.

Note:

• Meals in restaurants in El Nido go from Php150 to Php250, based on the handful of restaurants whose menu I checked.
• Expenses shown do not include plane fare (to and from Cebu) and tips. 

Puerto Princesa and El Nido:
Puerto Princesa: Zzzzs, Wheels, Meals
Vietnam in Palawan
The Gypsy's Lair
Puerto Princesa Underground River
Welcome to El Nido
Telesfora Beach Cottage in Corong-corong
A Perfect Day for Lagoon Hopping
A Perfect Day for Beach Hopping
Palawan on the Pocket (you're here!)

Puerto Princesa Underground River

A map of the river. Click to enlarge.

The Puerto Princesa Underground River. Some say it's overrated. I say it's over rated — the tour price of Php1500 is too much. My stingy mustache simply refused to spend that much for a ride down a river in the darkness. Granted the fee of Php1500 includes transfers to and from Puerto Princesa by van, to and from Sabang by pumpboat, buffet lunch, permit, and a 45-minute guided tour of the underground river, still my cheap self prevailed. But a visit to Puerto Princesa, I say to my first-timer self, should include the Underground River. If  there's a will, there's a way. And a cheap way there is.

First, the permit. You certainly cannot go to the Underground River without one. (If you got there without a permit, tell me how.) You must apply for a permit at their booking office at the City Coliseum in Puerto Princesa days before your scheduled visit. Slots can get filled up fast — they only allow a certain number of visitors per day. Or you can follow my lead and employ a travel agency to process a permit for you. Of course for an additional amount as service charge. In my case, it was Php175 for the permit plus Php50 service charge.

A crowded tourism office in Sabang

Then the problem of getting to Sabang. There are buses and vans going to Sabang whether you're coming from El Nido (5 hours) or Puerto Princesa (1.5 hours). Regrettably, I do not have any idea how much the fares are nor do I have the schedule. Our group swung by Sabang in our rented van on the way to Puerto Princesa from El Nido. This side trip cost us Php1500.

You have your permit and are now in Sabang. Then what? More digging in the pocket for fees. You have to pay the following at the tourism office in Sabang: environment fee Php40, boat rental Php700 (that's good for six persons already so gather up the gang or make friends with solo travelers or small groups), wharf fee of Php15 per boat, and, if you have a private vehicle or rented a van for your group, there's the parking fee of Php15.

Permit ready. All fees paid. Time to go to the waiting area to get assigned a pumpboat. If the line is long and you are getting hungry, there are a bunch of eateries in Sabang. Take your pick.

The pumpboat assigned to you will take you to and from Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (PPSRNP). The boat ride takes about 15 minutes, one way. If you see dozens of boats waiting near the shore as you approach the national park, expect to spend an hour or so waiting for your turn to get inside the underground river. As soon as you arrive in PPSRNP, get a priority number, lest you wait forever.

 Something tells me there's a long queue

What to do while waiting? Nope, not swimming. Sorry. Swimming is prohibited in the area; it's a marine reservation. What you can do is go look for monkeys and monitor lizards or take hundreds of photos around the beach. Be careful around the monkeys. Don't bring plastic bags. When the monkeys hear the sound of plastic they think it's food and will not hesitate to grab whatever it is they have fancied. And never grin at a monkey. You do not want to be attacked.

 A monkey taking a stroll on the boardwalk (left) and monitor lizards (right)

Tired of keeping yourself from grinning at the monkey? Go back to the waiting area and wait for your number to be called. Before boarding your row boat, don your lifevest and your helmet.

Into the mouth of the cave

The subterranean river is 8.2 km long but the tour will only cover 1.5 km. Beyond that, a special permit is needed.

I won't spoil your own underground river experience by repeating our guide's stories (besides I will never be able to tell it like he did). Here are a few of the photos taken inside the cave.

Blurry photos in the dark :D

I see a dinosaur

(Photo credits: Paupau Alvarez)

Bangs... ni Dora (the Explorer) :-)

(Photo credits: Mark Chongco)

Bats

(Photo credits: Mark Chongco)

March 18, 1937

(Photo credits: Mark Chongco)

The subterranean river is best enjoyed by:

• having patience. You will have your ride in the darkness soon enough.
• sitting in front and assisting with the light...only if your sense of hearing is 100% and you can follow instructions
• volunteering to sit in the last row, right in front of the guide...if your ears function at 50% or less
• paying attention to the guide
• using your imagination. A must.
• wearing a raincoat. Only if you're a gremlin.

Note: Van was hired and permits were processed through Trip@Palawan Travel and Tours. You may email Ms Abelle Marie Sualog at trippalawan@yahoo.com or call Sir Rommel Gevela at 0908 376 4933.

How Mustachio avoided the Php1500 tour package:
Permit Php175
Service fee for the processing of permit Php50
Van sidetrip (Php1500 shared by 10) Php150
Environment fee Php40
Pumpboat to Sabang (Php700 shared by 5) Php140
Wharf fee (Php15 shared by 5) Php3
Parking fee (Php15 shared by 5) Php3
Lunch at a carenderia in Sabang Php75
Total of Php636. Take that, tour package!



Puerto Princesa and El Nido:
Puerto Princesa: Zzzzs, Wheels, Meals
Vietnam in Palawan
The Gypsy's Lair
Puerto Princesa Underground River (you're here!)
Welcome to El Nido
Telesfora Beach Cottage in Corong-corong
A Perfect Day for Lagoon Hopping
A Perfect Day for Beach Hopping
Palawan on the Pocket

The Gypsy's Lair

We had been scrimping on food the past few days we were in Palawan, we decided to treat ourselves. We went to Mercado de San Miguel, a small complex of souvenir shops and two restaurants. Some friends opted to have burger at Skybox Sports Bar and Grille while half of the group decided to dine at The Gypsy's Lair.

The Lair's colorful and whimsical interiors, with art in every angle, appealed to me more than a burger. (Sometimes I get suckered into eating in a nice looking place without looking at the menu.)

I studied the menu with interest. There were so many delicious sounding dishes that it took me maybe ten minutes to decide. If I remember right, meals go from Php120 up to Php420, most of it in the range of Php160 to Php220. Because it was our last night in Puerto Princesa and I had decided to splurge a bit (I call it splurge because my budget for a meal on this trip was only Php150, including drinks), I had a chicken burrito (Php170) and a glass of lemongrass slush (Php70). I think they have special names for these, but I had forgotten to note it down.

Chicken burrito (left) and lemongrass slush (right)

I am glad I got suckered into eating in this nice looking place. I was satisfied with my food and drink. Wanted more of the burrito, in fact. I had the opportunity to take a photo of my friends' food, and a bite of each, too! The tapsilog is what you would expect a tapsilog to be. The bowl of squash soup can be shared by three people. The pork-kwa is deep fried pork belly with tofu.

From left to right: tapsilog, squash soup, and pork-kwa

The Gypsy's Lair has live acoustic music and palm reading. WiFi, too. We were there on a Monday and the palm reader was off duty. But the band was up on stage...looks like the sign hasn't been updated.

 

To cap off the night, one of our friends gave the vocalist a break and took the stage. Bravo, mi amiga!

The Gypsy's Lair Art Cafe
Unit 20 Mercado de San Miguel, National Highway, Puerto Princesa City
0918 909 5571
Daily 9AM to 12MN


How Mustachio splurged on his last night in Puerto Princesa:
Lemongrass slush Php70
Chicken burrito Php170



Puerto Princesa and El Nido:
Puerto Princesa: Zzzzs, Wheels, Meals
Vietnam in Palawan
The Gypsy's Lair (you're here!)
Puerto Princesa Underground River
Welcome to El Nido
Telesfora Beach Cottage in Corong-corong
A Perfect Day for Lagoon Hopping
A Perfect Day for Beach Hopping
Palawan on the Pocket

Vietnam in Palawan

When Viet Ville was mentioned by one of our companions during the five-hour drive to Puerto Princesa from El Nido, everyone sleepily agreed to stop by to give our legs a stretch and to grab a quick bite. It was only when we reached Viet Ville did it occur to me that this was the Vietnamese village the owner of Nha Hang Khoi (a restaurant where we had lunch in Mui Ne, Vietnam) mentioned.

Click to enlarge

Viet Ville used to be home to 1,500 Vietnamese, but now only a handful (less than ten families?) remain. Most of them have moved to the US when the US opened its doors to displaced Vietnamese.

It was quiet and looked abandoned in Viet Ville. I just took photos of my immediate surroundings and did not venture farther. It just felt rather creepy.

Viet Ville homes (left) and the community Church (right)

It was around five in the afternoon and the restaurant was deserted save for two couples quietly having their pho. We, tired folks, arranged ourselves onto a long table and placed our orders.

Viet Ville Restaurant has quite a number of items on their menu - appetizers, salads, soups, vegetable/beef/chicken/pork/seafood dishes, sandwiches (banh mi), desserts, and coffee - ranging from Php12 to Php160. Since this was just a snack stop, my sister and I shared banh mi thit (French bread with roasted pork) and pho bo (beef noodles). And I could not resist but ask for a piece of my seatmate's goi cuon (fresh lumpia).

Banh mi thit (left) and pho bo (right)

Goi cuon

I glimpsed a white-haired Vietnamese lady in the restaurant's kitchen who turned out to be the resident cook. Good job, Madam! I liked the food. I wish I could have tried all the other Vietnamese dishes on your menu...

Viet Ville Restaurant
Km 13, Brgy. Sta. Lourdes, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
Daily 9AM to 9PM


How this Vietnamese stop gladly bore a hole thru Mustachio's pocket:
Banh mi thit Php44
Pho bo Php105


Puerto Princesa and El Nido:
Puerto Princesa: Zzzzs, Wheels, Meals
Vietnam in Palawan (you're here)
The Gypsy's Lair
Puerto Princesa Underground River
Welcome to El Nido
Telesfora Beach Cottage in Corong-corong
A Perfect Day for Lagoon Hopping
A Perfect Day for Beach Hopping
Palawan on the Pocket