Cateel Just for Aliwagwag Falls

This mustache went a long, long way just to see a huge, huge stone staircase for a short, short time.

Long, long way

We could have gone straight to Davao City from Mangagoy in Surigao del Sur and it would have taken six hours. But we included Cateel, Davao Oriental as a stop and added two hours of road time. (Bachelor Express bus schedule from Mangagoy, Surigao del Sur to Cateel, Davao Oriental: 7AM / 1230PM / 230PM / 6PM; Fare: Php120)

In the small and quiet town of Cateel, we looked for a habalhabal/motorcycle (Php150/2 pax/roundtrip) to take us to Aliwagwag Falls (about 40 minutes from town), but not before having breakfast. I am grateful that the ladies at the eatery allowed us to leave our bags (oh, the kindness of strangers) for a few hours while we went to see Aliwagwag Falls, a giant stairway with cascading waters.

Huge, huge stone staircase

Wiki says Aliwagwag is...

"...a towering waterfall considered by hydraulic engineers as the highest in the country and regarded as one of the most beautiful falls in Mindanao. It is a series of 84 falls appearing like stairway to heaven with various heights among the steps ranging from 6 to 110 feet (34 m). One step is measured 72 feet (22 m) and another is 67 feet (20 m). Overall Aliwagwag Falls is 1,110 feet (340 m) of cascading energy and 20 meters in width. All these in the midst of virgin forest. River at the foot of the falls. 13 rapids to cross."

I agree, this huge stone staircase carpeted by rushing water is a wonder. If I wasn't too lazy, I would have wanted to see all 84 levels. In truth, even if I wasn't feeling lazy, I think I can only cover five levels. If this were a real staircase, one step would take a dozen human steps to reach the next, and some steps would most likely require both hands and feet. Aliwagwag Falls made (and still makes) me feel like an ant.

Short, short time

Ah, but we had to say goodbye to Aliwagwag Falls and Cateel after a few hours. Soon we were back in town to have lunch and to catch the 3PM Mallen Express bus to Davao City (Mallen bus schedule: 5AM and 3PM. Fare is Php250). It's going to be a long six–hour bus ride through the mountains of Compostela Valley.

Butt–rosying Route:
A Beauty T(r)ip
In the Beginning: Cagwait, Surigao del Sur
The Quickest Island Hopping Ever
Hinatuan's Enchanted River
Bislig's Marvelous Waterfall
Cateel Just for Aliwagwag Falls (you're here!)
Pit Stop: Aveflor Inn and Museo Dabawenyo
Suggested by a Davaoeña: Marina Tuna
Sunset Beach Park and Monfort Bat Colony in Samal Island
Butt–rosying Route Equals...

A Beauty T(r)ip

This, my friends, is how to get rosy butt cheeks and sparkling libat eyes (cross-eyed): Go on a roadtrip with a dozen or so transfers. In my case, a 600-something-kilometer roadtrip along the eastern provinces of Mindanao on different modes of public transportation. This is my butt-rosying (and butt-numbing) formula:

Day 1
Cebu to Surigao City (Surigao del Norte), taxi and plane
Surigao City to Cantilan (Surigao del Sur), 117 km, van
Cantilan to Tandag City, 52 km, van
Tandag City to Cagwait, 43 km, jeep

Day 2
Cagwait to San Agustin, 30 km, bus
San Agustin to Barobo, 37 km, bus
Barobo to Hinatuan, 34 km, van

Day 3
Hinatuan to Mangagoy, 37 km, van

Day 4
Mangagoy (Surigao del Sur) to Cateel (Davao Oriental), 75 km, bus
Cateel to Davao City (Davao del Sur),  191 km, bus

Day 5
Davao City to Samal Island (Davao del Norte), 15 km, jeep, ferry, and tricycle

Day 6
Samal Island to Davao City, 15 km, tricycle, ferry, and jeep
Davao City to Cebu, taxi and plane

and habalhabal, tricycle, pedicab, and pumpboat rides in between.

And, to get the sparkling cross-eyed look, this roadtrip by the numbers:
6 days
5 provinces
630+ kilometers
22 hours on the road
7 stops
11 transfers
4 vans
6 jeepneys
4 buses
8 motorcycles
3 tricycles
2 taxis
1 pumpboat
2 ferries
2 pedicabs
2 airplanes
2 "resorts"
2 inns
1 pension house
2 beaches
5 islands
1 river
2 waterfalls
1 cave
1 museum
12 bug bites
and
2 friends

Details on these beauty t(r)ips as soon as I get the cogs on my brain working. Putting a trip (this trip!) that happened five months ago on paper is hard work. I need to oil these rusty cogs real good.

Butt-Rosying Route:

A Beauty T(r)ip (you're here!)

In the Beginning: Cagwait White Beach, Surigao del Sur

The Quickest Island Hopping Ever
Hinatuan's Enchanted River
Bislig's Marvelous Waterfall
Cateel Just for Aliwagwag Falls
Pit Stop: Aveflor Inn and Museo Dabawenyo

Suggested by a Davaoeña: Marina Tuna
Sunset Beach Park and Monfort Bat Colony in Samal Island
Butt–rosying Route Equals...

Dahican, the Playground of Skimboarders

Three days up the mountain was more than enough. It was time to get back to level ground. From summit to sea, we brought ourselves to Dahican Beach in Mati, Davao Oriental, 170-something kilometers southeast of Davao City. It's a 2.5-hour van ride from Davao City to Mati. And from Mati proper, an 8-kilometer motorcycle ride to Dahican Beach.

We bought some supplies at the Mati Public Market before heading to the beach. We would be camping at Amihan sa Dahican, home of a group of skimboarders and surfers called the Amihan Boys. They are mentored by George "Jun" Plaza.

Dahican Beach

Amihan sa Dahican

The Amihan boys would skim all day if they could. But all day is not possible, there are chores to do in the morning before they can catch the waves. Their day starts as early as 5AM and chores include cleaning the beach, cooking, and washing the dishes, among others. Of course those who are studying have to attend classes and can only go skim and surf on weekends or when school's out.

The Amihan boys would skim all day if they could

Everyone is welcome at Amihan sa Dahican. Sir Jun Plaza let us camp for free. Unless you bring your own food, the only place you can get a meal is at a nearby resort. Amihan sa Dahican only has softdrinks and junk food for sale.

We brought food, but were still unprepared and had to shamefacedly ask to borrow their pots and utensils. The Amihan boys were kind enough to lend us what we needed, but it would have been better if we had a cookset and burner so as not to invade their kitchen and delay their cooking. They, too, have to cook for the team.

If you don't know how to cook, you can ask one of the Amihan boys to cook for you. A tip would be most welcome. They'll be happy to have some extra money as baon in school.

Toilet / Kitchen / Dining area

Camping area

Seven kilometers of beach

Dahican Beach is a long stretch of clean sandy beach. During amihan, from November to April, skimboarding and surfing are the activities of the season. Other months, the sea is calm and perfect for beach bums. Amihan sa Dahican also has a kayak and Sir Jun Plaza or one of the Amihan boys can take you along for a ride. They can also take you dolphin watching (June to August) or see the pawikans (sea turtles).

Clockwise from bottom left: Sir Jun Plaza and an Amihan boy on a kayak, Bayogyog Aporbo on a skimboard, Langlang Aporbo on a surfboard, and Mustachio on his butt.

We were there on a November weekend and the Amihan boys were all over the water catching the waves. It was awesome to see them on and off (doing stunts) their boards. Some of the Amihan boys have won competitions here and abroad.

 

These old bones aren't made for surfing. I have accepted that reality and so just stayed with Mustachia on the shallow part, avoiding the skimboarders' paths while trying not to get pummeled by the waves (very difficult to do). When we did get pummeled and rolled under the surf, we held on to our shorts (lest the waves take them off) and shut our traps to keep from swallowing sea water.

How this summit-to-sea-break broke Mustachio's budget:
Van to Mati, Davao Oriental Php 220
Provisions for lunch and dinner for two persons Php 338
Motorcycle to Dahican Php 50
Surfing instructor and board rental Php 400
Tips Php 140
Motorcycle to Mati Php 25
Bus to Davao City Php 272