Showing posts with label Albay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Albay. Show all posts

Monday, July 15, 2013

Stalking Mayon

My two goals in Albay were to eat Bicolano food (checked three times) and to see Mount Mayon (checked seven plus plus times).


Legazpi Airport

Albay welcomes every traveler flying in to Legazpi City with a view of Mount Mayon. Unfortunately for me, I was on the wrong side of the plane. But no matter, at the tarmac, Mount Mayon provides a beautiful background to an otherwise boring foreground.

A grand welcome to Albay.
And when flying out of Legazpi City, a view like this makes waiting for departure time a lot less boring.

Getting to and from Legazpi airport: Take a tricycle. It would cost Php 50 per tricycle going to the city center from the airport (and vice versa). The tricycle will take you straight to wherever it is you want to go, provided it's in Legazpi City. If you want a cheaper option, from the airport, walk about 400 meters to Washington Drive, and take a jeepney to the city (minimum fare is Php 8).


Ligñon Hill

Ligñon Hill is located just behind the airport, but I don't know if you can exit from the airport through a back door :-) The park is open daily from 8AM to 10PM (entrance fee is Php 20). It is open to joggers from 5AM to 8AM for free, all they have to do is jog jog jog all the way up up up the hill.

Mayon hiding behind clouds as seen from the zipline tower at Ligñon Hill

Gawking at Mayon is not the only activity at Ligñon Hill. Getting to the hill is an activity in itself. From the highway, you have to take an easy uphill walk to the entrance. After paying the entrance fee, you can arrange for an ATV ride (Php 1800 for a 150cc ATV) and then visit the Japanese tunnel (for a fee of Php 10) just a few meters from the entrance. The tunnel was used by the Japanese as a storage area for ammunition during World War II. What's there now? Just a short, well lit tunnel with some sad–looking military–costumed mannequins.

A tired mannequin–soldier guards the entrance of the tunnel

Then the real challenge begins. Going up the hill. It's a 15–minute hike uphill, with no flatland in between. If you want to take a shortcut, you can take the Kapit Tuko Trail. I took the shortcut and I reached the top with sweat dripping from my forehead, my eyebrows, my nose, my neck, my armpits. A big sweaty mess. I should have just taken the long road. (Do not take the shortcut if it's raining or if it just rained. The trail can get really muddy.)

Beginning of the Kapit Tuko Trail

Other activities along the long and winding road (if you don't take the shortcut) are rappelling and crossing the hanging bridge.

The road ends at the observatory which sits on top of the hill. The observatory houses souvenir shops, restaurants, and restrooms. Off to the side are two ziplines (Php 250 for the basic zipline and Php 350 for the "Superman" zipline). Surrounding the observatory are benches and green grass, where you can relax and gawk at Mount Mayon to the north. Your main purpose in visiting Ligñon Hill, I suppose. If you get bored staring at Mayon, you can go to the opposite side and look at airplanes land or take off with Legazpi City as the background.

The airport runway and Legazpi City as seen from Ligñon Hill

Going to Ligñon Hill: If coming from Legazpi City, take a Loop 1 jeepney (fare is Php 8).


Daraga Church

You guessed it. I came here to see Mount Mayon and, I'm ashamed to say, not the church. From what little information I read on the sign outside the church: Daraga Church was built by the Franciscan missionaries in 1773. You can read more about the church here.


Hear mass at Daraga Church with this view tugging your eyes to the right

Going to Daraga Church: Take a Legazpi–Daraga jeepney and tell the driver you're going to Daraga Church. From the main road it's a short uphill walk to the church.


Cagsawa Ruins

I have seen many photos of an old bell tower with Mayon in the background and I bet you have, too. This is Cagsawa Ruins, a popular tourist stop in Albay.

Just before the gate to the ruins, souvenir shops abound. Entering the gate will entail a fee of Php 10. Beyond the gate are more souvenir shops and what remains of Cagsawa Church after the 1814 eruption of Mount Mayon.

It is best to go really early in the morning, say 6AM, when Mayon is most likely to show herself. There's really not much to do here but see Mount Mayon and have one of the photographers take silly pictures of you. The photographer won't ask for a fee but will expect a donation.



Going to Cagsawa Ruins: Take a jeepney going to Guinobatan/Ligao City/Oas/Polangui. From the highway, it's a short 500–meter walk to Cagsawa Ruins. But on a hot day, instead of slowly sweating for 500 meters, you might want to take a tricycle (Php 10 per person).


ATV

They say a visit to Albay would not be complete without an ATV ride. There are a few tour operators offering ATV rides. It was when I was walking to Cagsawa Ruins that I noticed so many ATVs parked in rows. Ah, the headquarters of Bicol Adventure ATV.


Trails offered by Bicol Adventure ATV as of June 2013
(Click to enlarge)

This is a pretty expensive activity. All you do is drive around in a little ATV over rocks, streams, grass, mud. Go uphill, downhill, left, right. Take wide paths, narrow paths, no path. And in the end, feel your right hand go numb from squeezing the brakes and gripping the handle for three hours (depending on the trail; choose a shorter trail for a less hand–numbing experience, or better yet, don't use the brakes. Haha).

The terrific view

Oh, and the reward? A majestic view of Mayon, Legazpi City, and Camalig (Mi-isi Green Lava trail)—if it's not blanketed in fog.



Yes, Embarcadero de Legazpi is a mall. A mall with a view of Mayon. On my last day in Legazpi City, with nothing else to do, I decided to go to Embaracadero to stalk Mayon, yet again, and then have dinner.


Going to Embarcadero de Legazpi: Take a Legazpi–Daraga jeepney. The driver will know where to drop you off. Then it will be a 10–minute walk to the mall. If you're too lazy to walk, look for jeepneys plying Daraga–Tahao Road–Arimbay.


On the road

Heading north on a van to Pili in Camarines Sur from Legazpi City, I waved goodbye to Mayon from my window.




A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations
Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner
Stalking Mayon (you're here!)

Saturday, July 13, 2013

Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner

In Albay, I had two goals: eat Bicolano food and see Mount Mayon. Goal number one? Checked. Three times. Thanks to friends who have been to Albay for suggesting these restaurants.


1st Colonial Grill
G/F Pacific Mall, Landco Business Park, Legazpi City, Albay
(052) 481 1212 / (052) 820 0985

Other branch: Villa Amada Bldg. Rizal St. Daraga, Albay


Objective: Try 1st Colonial Grill's strange flavored ice cream. Strange in that the flavors are not your usual chocolate/strawberry/vanilla variety.

On the table: In addition to three scoops of ice cream (Php 79) of different flavors—tinutung, malunggay, and pili—this hungry man also had lunch of tinutungang manok (Php 239) and tinapa rice (Php 35/cup).

Of all the items on the menu, why these: My lunch choices were thanks to a brochure I picked up at the airport. I heeded its advice—any form of advertising works on me, haha.

Tinutungang manok (left) and tinapa rice (right)

Tinutungang manok is "chicken stewed in coconut cream extracted from slightly scorched coconut milk that infuses a distinct smoky flavor." Tinutung means burnt. Tinutungang manok had bananas which I found unusual but went well with the overall flavor of the dish. Yes, I liked the tinutungang manok though I found it expensive.

I am not sure if the cup of tinapa rice is any different from the platter in terms of taste but the photo on the menu of the platter of tinapa rice had salted egg, green mangoes, and tomatoes, while I couldn't find any of these in my cup(s) of rice. The rice, for me, wasn't any different from other tinapa rice I have tried. My tinutungang manok would have been more compatible with plain rice.

Tinutung na ice cream, malunggay ice cream, and pili ice cream

And the main reason for eating in 1st Colonial Grill: ice cream! There were five flavors to choose from: sili (chili), kalamansi (Philippine lemon), malunggay (moringa), tinutung ("burnt" rice), and pili. Although 1st Colonial Grill is known for its sili ice cream, I skipped this since I have tried it from another ice cream shop (the hotness comes as an aftertaste and yes, it is hot!). I would have wanted to try kalamansi (I like lemon) but my brain chose vegetables, grains, and nuts, over fruits. Malunggay ice cream was alright. Not something I would really crave for. Tinutung na ice cream—imagine burnt rice turned into ice cream. Interesting! But of the three flavors, I liked the pili ice cream best because I like pili nuts. Biased much.

Would I recommend 1st Colonial Grill? Yes. For the ice cream.



51 Doña Aurora St., Legazpi City, Albay
(052) 480 1393 / (052) 437 8708
Daily 11AM to 10PM


Objective: Try the Bicol inspired pasta and pizza.

On the table: A lot! Please see photos below.

Of all the items on the menu, why these: Because of the following keywords: Mayon, Bicol Express, and pili. I should mention that I did not eat all these in one sitting. I liked their affordable food so much that I had to go there again.

Left to right: Pasta Mayon, Bicol Express pasta, Pili basil pasta

Let's talk about the pasta. The descriptions according to Small Talk Café's menu: Pasta Mayon (Php 105) is pinangat/laing stuffed in ravioli pasta with red tuna sauce. Bicol Express pasta (Php 105)—alamang (itty bitty shrimps), sili (chili), gata (coconut milk) sauteed in garlic. And pili basil pasta (Php 120)—garlic, roasted pili nuts, fresh basil.

I couldn't really taste the pinangat/laing of Pasta Mayon. Bicol Express pasta was so spicy it made my eyes water. Even if I had to drink five glasses of their iced tea (thankfully, it's bottomless) to try to keep the tears at bay, I loved it! I liked the pili basil pasta because of the pili nuts! Haha. Again, I'm just biased. Of the three, I liked Bicol Express pasta best, and Pasta Mayon least.

Fiery Mayon stuffed pizza

The Fiery Mayon stuffed pizza (Php 265) is stuffed with laing, Bicol Express, tinutungan na gata (smoked coconut milk), and Guinobatan (a town in Albay) longanisa. A winner!

Rum cake with pili (left) and pili pie (right)

To wash away all the chili, desserts! Rum cake with pili (Php 60) was too buttery for my taste. I could only eat a third of it. I think the pili pie (Php 50) is one of their best sellers... on the basis that on my first visit, they had run out of stock.

Would I recommend Small Talk Café? Yes! Good food that's affordable. Appetizers start from Php 65; snacks from Php 45; pasta from Php 95; pizza from Php 215; vegetables from Php 45; chicken/beef/pork/seafood from Php 115; desserts from Php 22; and drinks from Php15.



Embarcadero de Legazpi, Legazpi City, Albay
See website for other branches around Albay and Camarines Sur


Objective: I read somewhere that Bigg's Diner is the biggest and best food chain in Bicol. Wanted to know what the fuss is all about.

On the table: Baby back ribs (Php 214), chicken cordon bleu with laing (Php 187), and pineapple juice (Php 47).

Of all the items on the menu, why these: According to the cashier one of their bestsellers is baby back ribs (Php 214). Dear Cashier, Are you sure this is a best seller? Their baby back ribs, for me, was nothing special. I can get tastier and bigger servings of baby back ribs in Cebu for much less. I decided to have chicken cordon bleu stuffed with laing (Php 187)...because of the laing. I found the chicken cordon bleu too dry. Boo.

Baby back ribs (left) and chicken cordon bleu stuffed with laing (right)

Would I recommend Bigg's Diner? No. I wasn't impressed with the food. Top it off with high prices (meals cost from Php 72 to Php 214). No, thank you.




A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations
Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner (you're here!)
Stalking Mayon

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Affordable Accommodations in Legazpi City

This post is for those looking for a cheap place to stay in Legaspi City in Albay. Because I am a cheapo myself...

...I risked my life by staying in Sampaguita Tourist Inn [Rizal Street, Legazpi City. (052) 480 6258]. Sampaguita Tourist Inn welcomes guests with a huge sign at their front door declaring: This building is a fire hazard.

Rates start at Php 275 (single, fan room) / Php 400 (double, fan room). The rooms are simple: bed, pillow, blanket, fan, table and chair, towel, soap, and a toilet and bath. Higher than Php 275, of course, for rooms with TV and/or airconditioner.


Because "This building is a fire hazard" kept gnawing at my brain, I just stayed a night in Sampaguita Tourist Inn. In my search for other affordable accommodations I checked out two inns also along Rizal Street: Twilight Zone Hotel [(052) 480 9374] and Great Pacific Tourist Inn [(052) 820 6348]. Both are slightly better (no signs that they were a fire hazard!) and slightly higher in price than Sampaguita Tourist Inn.

On a positive note: All three are along Rizal Street where one can easily catch a jeepney ride to towns east or west of Albay.


Still not satisfied with those two inns, I was led to RMJ Apartelle [Rose Street, Imperial Court Subdivision Phase 2, Legazpi City. 0917 558 9100 / 0928 507 9988. magendelrosario@gmail.com], in a subdivision just off Rizal Street. RMJ Apartelle looks newer than the three inns because it is quite young, less than two years old.



All rooms have AC, toilet, hot and cold shower, cable TV, cabinet, bed with pillows and sheets, table and chair, and a mini kitchen. Towels are provided. The room I stayed in was clean and so was its toilet and shower. Not bad for Php 650. There are three room types available: Php 650 (up to 2 pax) / Php 750 (up to 4 pax) / Php 900 (up to 6 pax). Breakfast is also available for a separate fee. The downside: it's in a subdivision and if you're too lazy to walk, you'd have to take a tricycle. Streets can be quite dark at night.

All four accommodations mentioned above are very near Gaisano Pacific Mall (where you can find 1st Colonial Grill, a popular restaurant in Legazpi City) and Legazpi Grand Central Terminal (where you can ride jeepneys for other points in Albay and vans for Camarines Sur and Sorsogon).


A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations (you're here!)
Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner
Stalking Mayon

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

La Terraza Restaurant

A tarpaulin with a photo of a bowl of halo-halo. Mmmm...tempting. After an hour of going up and down and around Kawa-Kawa Hill on a warm day? I gave in to temptation. Advertising works.

La Terraza Restaurant is just a few meters before the entrance of Kawa-Kawa Hill. Even before I had settled on a chair, "One halo-halo na may lambanog (Php 65), please". And the mistake of taking a look at the menu. A quick scan of the menu resulted in an order of sisig pansit guisado (Php 100). A case of having eyes bigger than the stomach.

Halo-halo na may Lambanog (left) and Sisig Pansit Guisado (right)

The halo-halo had red beans, nata de coco, mango, buko, melon, ube, a scoop of ice cream, a choco wafer stick, and a cup of lambanog (coconut wine). I found out, while talking to one of the staff, that this has been featured in a Philippine TV show. It did have a different taste because of the lambanog, but it didn't make me a fan. Maybe because I was never a fan of wine?

The sisig pancit guisado comes in two sizes. The larger one costs Php 200. The one I got was for Php 100 and it looked like it could feed up to four persons. Good price for its serving size. The reason for ordering this? Sisig. I love sisig. But this one was a bit of a disappointment... it was too salty.

It's either not my day or not the cook's day.


Carmel Heights, Kawa-kawa, Brgy. Tuburan, Ligao City, Albay
0917 302 0932
Daily 7AM to 9PM


A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill

Sunday, July 7, 2013

Ligao City's Kawa-Kawa Hill

I flew to Albay with no definite plan and just these two goals: eat Bicolano food and see Mount Mayon. A few days before the trip I saw a photo of an unusual hill, a hill with its center scooped out, I should say. I tucked that picture in my mind for future reference.

Source

One boring day, while sitting in a bus en route to Legazpi City, I mentally dug up the photo and thought, 'Why not? I don't have anything else to do today anyway.' I informed the bus conductor of my destination, he gave me my ticket, I examined it, handed over my bus fare, and sat on my auto–recline seat. My seat kept reclining on its own every few minutes, probably trying to get me to sleep, for it knew the bus was lethargic. After what seemed like hours, the bus conductor finally announced "Kawa-Kawa hill!" Off the bus I went with the bus conductor telling me to just take a tricycle to Kawa-Kawa hill. So I did. Three minutes into the tricycle ride, the tricycle driver stopped and said we're here. Huh? That near? I could have just walked.

I looked around and couldn't find any sign telling me that I was at Kawa-Kawa hill. Turns out the drop off point of tricycles is halfway between the highway and the entrance of Kawa-Kawa hill.

Pathway between stations

From where the tricycle dropped me off, it was only a hundred meters or so to the entrance but my backpack grew heavier with every step up the incline. And it dawned on me...I am getting old. I know it's going to be my shallow version of Calvary if I lug my bag around Kawa-Kawa. At the entrance, I asked around if I could leave my bag somewhere and a lady selling cold drinks and snacks kindly offered to keep my bag (without asking for payment) in the wooden table-slash-cabinet on which she displays her goods. Thank you, ma'am, for getting it off my back.

Stations of the Cross

The hill, because of its shape, got its name from the Filipino word for cauldron: kawa. Kawa-Kawa Hill is more of a religious destination because of the Stations of the Cross beginning at the entrance, going up the hill and around its rim. At some point near the 10th Station, I took a sweeping look around and saw that the hill is indeed awesome. Too bad my photo couldn't convey its awesomeness.


I admit I didn't go to Kawa-kawa hill for the Stations of the Cross, but for the view. I circumnavigated its rim, breathed deep for the fresh air (and to catch my breath), and just took in all the greenery surrounding me. I wanted to snooze in the open–air cottage but the kind lady might get worried that I wouldn't come back for my bag.



Kawa-Kawa Hill
Brgy. Tuburan, Ligao City, Albay
Daily Morning (yup, that's what the sign says) to 8PM


How to go to Kawa-Kawa Hill:
Kawa-Kawa Hill is about 30 kilometers from Legazpi City. From Legazpi City, take a jeepney to Ligao City/Oas/Polangui. The jeepney driver will know where to drop you off. From the highway, either take a tricycle (Php 8) or walk. Visiting Kawa-Kawa Hill is free but donations are most welcome.


A Fraction of Albay:
Camalig: Let's Pinangat, Shall We?
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill (you're here!)
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations
Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner
Stalking Mayon

Friday, July 5, 2013

Let's Pinangat, Shall We?

I'm going to Albay. I'm going to eat Bicolano grub. I must eat Bicolano grub! And I am making sure pinangat is one of them. My tastebuds first encountered pinangat in Camarines Sur in 2012. Afterwards, because I was never given the gift of cooking, I could only salivate at photos and recipes of pinangat.

According to Camalig's website, "Pinangat is a nutritious vegetable dish whose main ingredient includes gabi leaves, a bit of red ginger, tiny shrimps or a slice of salted fish or pork. Crushed pepper is added to the mixture to make the pinangat hot. The entire recipe is then wrapped in gabi leaves and tied in small bundles. These are placed in a palayok (clay pot) and cooked in coconut milk."

I am sure I can find pinangat just about anywhere in Albay, but when I discovered my route was through Camalig, the hometown of pinangat, I could not let the opportunity literally pass me by.


Let's Pinangat, in the town of Camalig, is a very simple eatery. It looks like a cafeteria with a set of viands in a stainless steel and glass case, a separate display of Bicolano delicacies, and a glass–front refrigerator stocked with beverages. Three enormous stainless steel containers piled one on top of the other, full of hot steaming pinangat, sweat on a table between the case of viands and display of delicacies. Locals constantly trickle in to buy food either for take out or for dining in. There are other dishes on offer but everyone who came, I observed, have at least an order of pinangat. It must be really good then.

 

For forty pesos, I get one huge serving of pinangat. Seriously huge! I could only finish half of it with my one cup of rice. If I wasn't too full, I would have ordered two cups of rice and eaten everything. It is with regret that I had to leave half of this delicious pinangat behind.


Find your way to Let's Pinangat:
From Legazpi City, take a Camalig–bound jeepney. Jeepneys going to Guinobatan/Ligao City/Oas/Polangui also pass by Camalig. Let's Pinangat is along the highway. I am positive jeepney drivers know where it is.


How this simple meal was heavy on Mustachio's stomach but light on his pocket:
Pinangat Php 40
Rice Php 15



A Fraction of Albay:
Camalig: Let's Pinangat, Shall We? (you're here!)
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations
Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner
Stalking Mayon