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Saturday, June 9, 2018

History and Nature in East Jeju

On my fourth day in Jeju, I was left to my own devices and I went on to explore a bit of the east side of Jeju.

Jeju Folk Village

제주민속촌

830AM to 5PM (Closes 30 minutes to an hour later in spring and summer)

Admission fee: 11,000 won

Audio Guide rental: 2,000 won

Jeju Folk Village is a large open-air museum showing the different kinds of villages (mountain village, fishing village, shaman village, etc) in Jeju in the 1890s. (For K-drama aficionados, Jeju Folk Village was the filming location for Jewel in the Palace.) There were different kinds of houses, complete with tools, earthenware, and even animals (like a donkey, a cow, and a black pig!). There were also exhibition halls for fishing tools, farming tools, local crafts, and earthenware. It was quite interesting to see how Jeju people lived over a hundred years ago. There are three scheduled 30-minute folk performances (1120AM, 130PM, 330PM) but I did not get to see any of them as I had to leave Jeju Folk Village by 1030AM to catch the bus to Seopjikoji.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 221 to 제주민속촌 Jeju Folk Village bus stop (last stop; 1 hour).

Houses in a mountain village

Taewoo, a raft used for fishing

Jeju black pig

Seopjikoji

섭지코지

107 Seopjikoji-ro, Seogwipo-si

The beautiful coastline of Seopjikoji peninsula starts at the sandy Sinyang Beach 신양 해변 where there are benches to just chill, feel the breeze (or if it's a strong wind, get pelted by sand), and take in the view of Seongsan Ilchulbong in the distance. Following the road into Seopjikoji, the landscape changes into a rocky coastline then to grassy areas and a Canola flower field.

Along the way there is an aquarium called Hanhwa Aqua Planet Jeju 아쿠아플라넷 제주; The Glass House (a building designed by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando), which houses Mint Restaurant and the Zippo Museum; a lighthouse; a building that looks like candy; the remains of an old signaling site called Hyeopja Beacon Fire Station 협자연대; and an art gallery called Yumin Art Nouveau Collection 유민미술관 which is housed in a building called Genius Loci 지니어스 로사이 (also designed by Tadao Ando).

Hanhwa Aqua Planet Jeju
아쿠아플라넷 제주
Daily 10AM to 7PM
Admission fees:
40,900 won (19-64 yrs old)
39,200 won (13-18 yrs old, 65 yrs old and above)
37,200 won (3-12 yrs old)

Yumin Art Nouveau Collection
유민미술관
Wednesday to Monday 9AM to 6PM
Admission fee: 12,000 won

It was spring and the walk from the entrance of Seopjikoji down to the southern tip of the peninsula was long but comfortable. The sun was out, but the breeze kept me cool, and the landscape all around kept my eyes busy. I didn't stop by Hanhwa Aqua Planet, but popped into Zippo Museum and checked out the artworks and the humongous artsy Zippo lighter cases. I also went to the lighthouse for sweeping views of the sea and of Seopjikoji. Continuing my hike south, I passed by a poorly maintained and off-limits building that was designed to look like candy, until I reached the Hyeopja Beacon Fire Station, which from afar looks like a small mound of rocks. On my way back, I went to see the Genius Loci building but it was Tuesday, the day when it (and the Yumin Art Gallery within) is closed. Nearby, I spotted a field of canola flowers where I took some photos before hurrying back to the entrance to catch the bus to Seongsan Ilchulbong.

Directions by bus:

From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 to 성산포 수협 Sungsanpo Waterworks bus stop (95 minutes) and transfer to bus 295 to 섭지코지 Seopjikoji bus stop (3 minutes) or walk 2.5 km to Seopjikoji entrance. Be aware that bus 295 only comes 10 times a day. If you don't want to transfer, take bus 201 to 신양리입구 Sinyang Entrance bus stop (100 minutes) and walk 1.5 km to Seopjikoji entrance.
From Jeju Folk Village, walk 1 km to 표선환승정류장(표선리사무소) Pyoseon Transit Stop bus stop and take bus 295 to 섭지코지 Seopjikoji bus stop (40 minutes). Be aware that bus 295 only comes 10 times a day. If you miss bus 295, take bus 201 to 신양리입구 Sinyang Entrance bus stop (40 minutes) and walk 1.5 km to Seopjikoji entrance.

A view of Seongsan Ilchulbong from Sinyang Beach at the entrance of Seopjikoji

Changing landscape

The Glass House

Art at the Zippo Museum

The Genius Loci building houses the Yumin Art Gallery

The lighthouse reflected on the Genius Loci building

Canola flower field

Seongsan Ilchulbong

성산일출봉

Summer 710AM to 7PM

Winter 730AM to 6PM

Admission fee: 2,000 won

Seongsan Ilchulbong, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a 180-meter high volcanic tuff cone. Tuff cones are formed from the interaction between rising magma and bodies of water. Tuff cones are between 100 to 300 meters high and have steep sides and a wide and broad crater at the top. Seongsan Ilchulbong's crater is about 600 meters in diameter.

Seongsan Ilchulbong is also called Sunrise Peak, and people who have cars go to Seongsan Ilchulbong early to watch the sunrise. But people like me who can't afford or are too cheap to rent a car won't be able to catch the sunrise if taking a bus. No sunrise, no sunset, I still decided to make it Leg Day by climbing the stairs to the peak. The peak can be reached in 20 minutes, but I took many breaks to catch my breath and reached the peak in half an hour. Up top, the bleachers on the viewing deck afforded a view of the grassy crater.

Back down below, I checked out the surrounding area where the Haenyeo (female divers who don't use scuba gear) are (but the performance schedule was already over), and the viewing area where one could see Udo Island in the distance.

Directions by bus:

From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 or 211 or 212 to 성산일출봉입구 Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance bus stop (95 minutes).
From Seopjikoji, take bus 295 to 성산일출봉입구 Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance bus stop (10 minutes). Be aware that bus 295 only comes 10 times a day. If you miss bus 295, walk 1.5 km to 신양리입구 Sinyang Entrance bus stop and take bus 201 to 성산일출봉입구 Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance bus stop.

Leg day!

On top of Seongsan Ilchulbong

Seongsan Ilchulbong's crater

Views from the top

Down there is where one can watch a haenyeo

The other side of Seongsan Ilchulbong

Udo Island in the distance

Note: Since I was staying in Jeju City, the directions I have provided above start from Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal. If you are staying in Seogwipo City, use Google Maps to find nearby bus stops and what buses to take. If you can read Korean or have the patience to use Google translate (though the translation is not perfect), the Jeju Bus app or the Jeju Bus website is a more accurate option than Google Maps.

In the map below, I have pinned two places that you might also want to stop by: Gwangchigi Beach, for a view of Seongsan Ilchulbong, and the Canola Flower Fields, if you're visiting in spring.

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju (you're here!)
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas
Walking Around Gyeongju
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village
Joining the Cherry Blossom Loving Crowds in Jinhae
Cherry Blossom Binge Continues in Busan
Busan Museum of Art
Spring 2018 Jeju and Southeast South Korea Itinerary and Expenses

Saturday, May 26, 2018

Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport

Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
2-2, Seogwang-ro 5-gil, Jeju City 63184 Jeju
+82 7088100106

Rooms. If you are looking for private rooms, then this is not the guesthouse for you. Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport only has dorm rooms with common toilet-and-shower rooms. There are 4-bed and 8-bed female dorms located on the second floor, and 6-bed and 8-bed male dorms on the third floor. The dorm rooms are clean and not cramped. Each bed has a curtain for privacy, heating pad, lamp, small shelf, and power outlets. There are lockers in the dorm. There is also a clothes rack with hangers. The rooms have airconditioner/heater.

8-bed dorm

6-bed dorm

Toilet and Shower. The toilet and shower are not separate, and there are only two shared by 12 to 16 beds. If both toilet/shower rooms are in use, and you really need to pee, there is a toilet at the ground floor. Since the toilet and shower room is combined, the floor will surely be wet if you use it after someone has just showered. There is a towel rack on which to hang your towel and clothes while you take a shower. Shampoo, soap, and toothpaste are provided. A towel, though only handtowel size (which seems to be the norm in guesthouses/hostels in South Korea), is provided for each guest, and can be exchanged for a new one daily at the reception.

Toilet and shower

Price. Dorm beds start at 16000 won. I booked a bed in Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport through booking.com

Breakfast. The reception and dining area is on the ground floor. The room rate includes breakfast of cup noodles, toast, jam/butter, coffee, tea, and juice. Breakfast is already available by 630am.

WiFi. WiFi is available all through the guesthouse.

Staff. The staff are friendly but not all of them can speak English, but, during my stay, there was at least one who could understand and speak English.

Security. The front door can be accessed by PINpad and dorm rooms by key. The staff will give you the key and the PIN code, but they'll assume you already know how to use the PINpad.

Laundry. The guesthouse has a washing machine and dryer and you can have your clothes washed and dried for 2000 won. It is not self-service—the staff will do the laundry for you—embarrassing if you need to do wash your underwear too.

Luggage Storage. There is a luggage storage area in the basement. You can leave your luggage there if you arrive early or if you will be leaving hours after check out.

Location. Although the name of this guesthouse is Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport, it is not right next to Jeju International Airport, but is 2.4 kilometers away and can easily be reached by a 10-minute, 1200- to 2000-won (depending on what type of bus) bus ride (or if you'd rather walk, it's 25 minutes on foot). If you will be taking buses to get around Jeju, then the guesthouse location is perfect—it is just across the Jeju Bus Terminal. If you get hungry, you can buy snacks and boxed meals at nearby convenience stores.

About the photos: Because I forgot to take photos of the guesthouse during my stay, all photos in the blogpost were grabbed from Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport's booking.com page.

South Korea Spring 2018

Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport (you're here!)

Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas
Walking Around Gyeongju
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village
Joining the Cherry Blossom Loving Crowds in Jinhae
Cherry Blossom Binge Continues in Busan
Busan Museum of Art
Spring 2018 Jeju and Southeast South Korea Itinerary and Expenses

Sunday, June 17, 2018

Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse

Why bother staying a night in Gyeongju? Gyeongju is a very historic city with many UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as Bulguksa Temple, Seokguram Grotto, Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village, and Gyeongju Historic Areas. Some sites that are included in the Gyeongju Historic Areas are walking distance from the city center (Royal Tombs, Donggung Palace & Anapji Pond, Cheomseongdae Astronomical Observatory, Gyerim Forest, Banwolseong, etc) and other World Heritage Sites are a short bus ride away (Bulguksa Temple, Seokguram Grotto, Gyeongju Yandong Historic Village, etc). For history buffs, a night in Gyeongju would not be enough.

Photo from booking.com

And the best location to stay, in my opinion, would be near the sites and near the bus terminal. So, you know, I could just walk to the sites and to/from the bus terminal when I arrive/leave.

Chacharang Guesthouse is just a 10-minute walk from the Intercity and Express Bus Terminals. It is right next to the Royal Tombs park. Plus there are nearby bus stops (for city buses).

I arrived at Chacharang Guesthouse in the morning, hours before check in time, but the kind, elderly owner immediately let me check in. The guesthouse had many rooms: 6-bed dorms (all-female/all-male) and private rooms (for two, four, and five persons). I stayed in a 6-bed dorm. There were lockers in the room, one for each bed. A bath towel the size of a hand-towel was provided for each guest. The bunk beds didn't have a curtain, nightlight, and dedicated power outlets. But I did see four power outlets in the room. Each room had its own private toilet and shower. Shampoo, soap, and toothpaste were also available.

6-bed dorm

Ensuite toilet and shower

Breakfast of toast, jam, eggs (cook your own), coffee, and tea is available from 830am to 1030am at the dining area on the ground floor. (But when I went down at 730am, the owner was already up and the food was available.)

I guess it was lean season—I only saw two other guests: my roommates who arrived later that night. And, maybe because we were only three guests, most of the lights in the hall and in the reception and dining areas were turned off and these areas were too cold.

On a positive note, the owner was very kind and helpful. He searched for the bus schedule for Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village when I couldn't find the info. And he also allowed me to leave my luggage at the reception after I checked out and while I visited Yangdong Village in the morning.

Price:
Dorm beds start at 18,000 won.
Private rooms start at 70,000 won.
Book Chacharang Guesthouse through booking.com

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse (you're here!)
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas
Walking Around Gyeongju
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village
Joining the Cherry Blossom Loving Crowds in Jinhae
Cherry Blossom Binge Continues in Busan
Busan Museum of Art
Spring 2018 Jeju and Southeast South Korea Itinerary and Expenses

Thursday, June 7, 2018

Jeju Eats

It's a privilege to have someone local show you around and feed you the best local eats. A million thanks to JaeHwa and JungIn!

제주형돈연탄생근고기

+82 64-753-2004

JaeHwa, who lives in Jeju City, took me and JungIn to this restaurant to try 제주흑돼지 Jeju heuk dwaeji, which is pork from a black pig. According to JungIn, who lives in Busan, this type of meat can only be had in Jeju.

We had the 600g serving of heuk dwaeji [54,000 won] and a bowl of kimchi soup [6,000 won]. The pork is cut in pieces and grilled. There are three ways to eat the pork. One is to dip it in the salty anchovy sauce that is heated on the grill. Another is to just dab a bit of salt on the pork. And the third way to eat heuk dwaeji, like samgyupsal and other grilled meat dishes, is to put it on a perilla leaf and add a bit of kimchi, a piece of garlic, a strip of onion. I found the pork tender and juicy but a tad too big to be eaten in one mouthful, which JaeHwa insists is the right way to eat it!

This restaurant is popular with the locals as evidenced by the fully occupied tables when we visited.

Photo by JungIn

낭뜰에 쉼팡

9AM to 9PM

+84 64 784 9292

We came to this restaurant for the bibimbap. JaeHwa recommended the 고기비빔밥 gogi bibimbap (with meat) [7,000 won] and that's what we had. Indeed it was delicious! JaeHwa also ordered the
더덕막걸리 dodok makgeolli [5,000 won], a local rice wine served in a bowl. I'm not a wine drinker so I can't say much about the dodok makgeolli.

백선횟집

+82 64-751-0033

In this sashimi restaurant, we ate 사시미 sashimi [large 60,000 won] and some kind of fish soup. I am not into sashimi nor any soup with fish in it, so this was one dinner I did not really enjoy (good thing I was still full from the late lunch of gogi bibimbap). But JaeHwa and JungIn loved this and cleaned off the platter of sashimi!

Photo by JungIn

국수마당

+82 64-727-6001

This is one of the meals I especially liked: a bowl of noodles in pork broth called 고기국수 gogi guksu [7,500 won]. I slurped it all—not a morsel nor a drop was left in my bowl! It was so tasty! JaeHwa had the spicy mixed noodles called 비빔국수 bibim guksu [7,500 won]. I didn't try it, but it looks like bibimbap with slices of pork and with noodles instead of rice.

Bibim guksu (left) and gogi guksu (right)

가시식당 2호점

11AM to 9PM

+82 64-722-1035

For our last dinner together, we tried 두루치기 duruchigi [7,000 won per person]. It is stir fried pork with kimchi and mung bean sprouts. The pork was tender and the sauce wasn't too spicy. The quantity was quite big that we could not finish it all.

Three servings of duruchigi

Dongmun Market

동문재래시장

We found tons of oranges, fresh seafood, sashimi ready to be eaten, and delicacies (mostly orange flavored goodies) in Dongmun Market. We tried a plate of 딱새우 shrimp sashimi [10,000 won], some dol hareubang (stone grandfather statue) shaped manju with orange filling (we loved this!), and some sweet seedless hallabong oranges, a specialty in Jeju.

Raw fish and raw shrimp ready for the eating

Oranges!

Dol hareubang shaped manju with orange filling

Heads up! The menu in these restaurants are in Korean! Only 국수마당, the restaurant where we had noodles, had an english translation. Most signs in Dongmun Market were also in Korean.

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats (you're here!)
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas
Walking Around Gyeongju
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village
Joining the Cherry Blossom Loving Crowds in Jinhae
Cherry Blossom Binge Continues in Busan
Busan Museum of Art
Spring 2018 Jeju and Southeast South Korea Itinerary and Expenses

Thursday, June 21, 2018

Walking Around Gyeongju

As soon as I had dumped my bags in Chacharang Guesthouse, I went out to explore the historic sites of Gyeongju City. Right next door was the northern portion of the Royal Tombs Park and that's where I started. This is the Noseo-dong area of the park where six tombs in different sizes are found. Five are shaped like hills, and one is shaped like a half moon. Among the items excavated from the half moon shaped tomb was a small gold crown. Thus, believed to be the tomb of a young member of the royal family.

South of the Noseo-dong Tombs Park is the Daerungwon Tombs Park. This area has four large tombs. The largest tomb in this area is the Hwangnamdaechong Tomb, which contains two tombs, believed to enshrine a royal couple. About 11,500 items were discovered in a tomb called Cheonmachong Tomb. Cheonmachong Tomb can be entered with an admission fee of 2000 won. But, as luck would have it, it was under restoration work at the time of my visit. Another tomb in Daerungwon is the tomb of King Michu, the 13th king ruler of the Silla Kingdom. Every year there is a commemoration held by his descendants.

These tombs are believed to have been built between the 5th and 6th century for the royal families of the Silla Dynasty, one of the three kingdoms that ruled Korea. These tombs are included in the Tumuli Park Belt of the Gyeongju Historic Areas UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Daerungwon Tombs Park

Daerungwon Tombs Park

Further south are sites included in the Wolseong Belt of the Gyeongju Historic Areas UNESCO World Heritage Site. One is Cheomseongdae, the oldest astronomical observatory in East Asia.

Cheomseongdae

Another world heritage is the Gyerim Forest, said to be the birthplace of Kim Al-ji, the founder of the Gyeongju Kim clan. According to the Samguk Yusa (Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms), King Talhae heard a cock crow in the forest. He sent Chancellor Hogong into the forest to investigate where Hogong saw a golden box hanging from the branch of a tree. Hogong informed the King and the King instructed him to bring the golden box to the King. Inside the box, King Talhae found a male child whom he named Kim Al-ji.

Gyerim Forest

East of Cheomseongdae and Gyerim Forest is the Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond (also called Imahejeon Palace and Anapji Pond respectively). Donggung Palace was one of the main palaces of the Silla Kingdom and many important events were held here. In this area are three restored buildings and a large pond (Wolji Pond). According to the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), "a large pond was excavated at the palace, flowers planted, and rare birds and strange animals raised."

Map of Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond

A diorama of Donggung Palace

Artefacts on display in one of the restored buildings

A roof tile to ward off evil spirits

I have been told that it is best to visit Cheomseongdae and Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond at night, when these sites are illuminated. It is free to enter Cheomseongdae, and 2000 won to enter Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond. The 2000 won admission fee for Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond is for one-time entry; once you exit, you need to buy another admission ticket to enter again.

Not having fully recovered and reenergized from the 5-hour hike up and down Hallasan yesterday, my visits to Cheomseongdae and Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond were in the daytime only.

Other places I visited while walking around Gyeongju City were the Gyochon Traditional Village and the Woljeonggyo Bridge.

Gyochon Traditional Village is a cluster of hanok houses. Some of these houses have been converted into shops offering traditional experiences, others are still used as residences.

Gyochon Traditional Village

There is one historic house built in 1779, the premises of which is open to the public (the house though can't be entered). This is the House of "Rich Man" Choi, head of the Gyeongju Choi clan. It is a National Cultural Property. According to the information board at the gate of the house, the Choi family "was widely admired by the local community, not just for their thoughtful management of their enormous wealth for twelve generations, but also for their ethical approach to life and their practice of noblesse oblige."

House of "Rich Man" Choi

In Gyochon Traditional Village, I had late lunch at a famous eatery called 교리김밥 Gyori Gimbap. There were only two things on the menu: noodles (5000 won) and gimbap (7000 won, 2 rolls). I loved the noodles and slurped the soup to the last drop. The gimbap was also very good and had a lot of eggs, but two rolls was too much for one person! There is usually a long line at Gyori Gimbap so it is best to go early or late.

Gyori Gimbap

Gimbap and noodles

On the southeast end of Gyochon Village is the Woljeonggyo Bridge. At the time of my visit (March 2018), one could enter the bridge but could not exit at the other end as it was still undergoing restoration.