Art and Nature in Seogwipo City

Jeju City was our home base for the six days we were in Jeju, but we did not confine ourselves within its boundaries. We ventured south to Seogwipo City, just an hour and a half by bus (we took Bus 281, 1150 krw per way), for some art and nature.

Lee Jung Seop Gallery/Residence/Street

In 2018, a drawing on a piece of foil captured my attention in Busan Museum of Art, and the artist's name—Lee Jung Seop—stuck in my brain. Lee Jung Seop spent the year 1951 in Seogwipo City, and the city has dedicated a street to him. On this street is the house he lived in and an art gallery of his works.

Lee Jung Seop Street
이중섭거리
📍 Google Map

Lee Jung Seop Street (and the alleys branching from it) is, not surprisingly, full of art, be it on the walls or on the ground.

Lee Jung Seop Gallery
이중섭미술관
27-3 Ijungseop-ro, Seogwipo-si
Tuesday to Sunday 9AM to 6PM
Admission fee 1500 krw
📍 Google Map

The Lee Jung Seop Gallery has two floors. On the first floor is the permanent exhibit of Lee Jung Seop's life and artworks, and a gift shop. I was most fascinated by Lee Jung Seop's art on foil.

On the second floor is a changing exhibit. Because 2019 (the year we visited) was the year of the pig, it showcased pig-themed artworks.

Lee Jung Seop Residence
이중섭 거주지
29 Ijungseop-ro, Seogwipo-si

📍 Google Map

During WWII, Lee Jung Seop and his family (he had a Japanese wife and two sons) fled the war and stayed in Seogwipo City in 1951 where they lived in a room in a house owned by Song Tae Ju and Kim Soon Bok. Now, the house is open to the public and is free to view.

Seogwipo Street Art

While wandering around Seogwipo City, we met an elderly man on the street who asked where we were from and where we wanted to go. He was quite happy to know we were foreigners and gave us directions (though we did not ask)—I guess he was just excited to have the chance practice his English. I am not sure we even followed his directions—we were too busy noticing so many random street art on walls of shops, houses, restaurants. And even on a bench.

Natural Wonders in Seogwipo

Seogwipo is gifted with wonderful nature, including Jeju's top three waterfalls and a cliff made of volcanic pillars.

Jeongbangpokpo (Jeongbang Falls)
정방폭포
37 Chilsimni-ro 214beon-gil, Seogwipo-si
Daily 9AM to 6PM
Admission fee 2000 krw
📍 Google Map

One of Jeju's top three waterfalls is Jeongbang Falls, just 600 meters east of Lee Jung Seop Street. Jeongbang is a 23-meter waterfall that falls directly to the sea. (Though I have read about waterfalls that fall directly to the sea, this is the first that I have seen such, not just on paper or on video!) Because Jeongbang's pool is surrounded by rocks, we were able to get near the falls, but not too near that we'd get drenched.

The sea facing Jeongbang Falls

Cheonjiyeonpokpo (Cheonjiyeon Falls)
천지연폭포
Cheonji-dong, Seogwipo-si
Daily 9AM to 10PM
Admission fee 2000 krw
📍 Google Map

The other two waterfalls included in Jeju's top three are Cheonjiyeon Falls and Cheonjeyeon Falls. Did you have to read it again to make sure you read it correctly? No, that is not an error. Really, those are the names! I only went to Cheonjiyeon Falls as it was only an 8-minute (700 meters) walk west of Lee Jung Seop Street (Cheonjeyeon Falls is an hour away by bus).

Cheonjiyeon Falls, at 22 meters, is almost as tall as Jeongbang Falls. And to see its beauty is a walk in the park. Literally. From the ticket booth, we crossed a bridge, passed souvenir shops, and followed a concrete path running alongside a river which is the habitat of nocturnal giant mottled eels. It was a pleasant 6-minute walk with lots of tree cover.

On one side of the parking area of Cheonjiyeon Falls, near the ticket booth, are many restaurants. We chose 거부맛집 (Geobu Restaurant), which offered traditional Korean food. It was after the lunch rush hour, so we enjoyed our delicious meal without the noise of other customers—we pretty much had the restaurant to ourselves.

Jusangjeollidae (Jusangjeolli Cliff)

주상절리대

36-30, Ieodo-ro, Seogwipo-si

Daily 9AM to 6PM

Admission Fee 2000 krw

📍 Google Map

Jusangjeolli Cliff is an hour by bus from Cheonjiyeon Falls. We brought ourselves to Jusangjeolli by taking bus 520 at the bus stop near Lee Jung Seop Street. 

Jusangjeolli Cliff, designated as a Natural Monument, is made up of columnar joints or rock pillars (formed when lava cools or contracts). Remember, Jeju Island is a volcanic island. Jusangjeolli Cliff is quite an awesome sight. With the sea breeze blowing and the sound of waves crashing, it was a refreshing visit. But, like all tourist sites, it too has its share of shops selling food and souvenirs, and busloads of tourists.

Osulloc Tea Museum and Plantation 
오설록 티뮤지엄
15 Sinhwayeoksa-ro, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si
Daily 9AM to 6PM
📍 Google Map

Though still part of Seogwipo City, it would take three bus rides from the city center to reach Osulloc Tea Museum and Plantation. But this did not deter me from dragging my friend to Osulloc as I have been curious what a tea plantation looks like. Plus I wanted to eat anything green tea, which their cafe specializes in.

Their museum (we did not visit as we were pressed for time) has a tea cup gallery displaying different tea cups and tea ware used over the years in Korea and also tea cups from around the world. They also have a tea shop where you can buy tea and other tea related things.

Green tea fields

Set: green tea ice cream, hallabong shake, green tea roll (17600 krw)

Hot green tea with tangerine (6500 krw) and green tea croque monsiuer (5500 krw)

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.

Jeju and Busan, April 2019
Jeju Accommodation: Jeju R Hotel & Guesthouse
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus Plus KakaoMap (2019)
Eats from Jeju City Restaurants I Can't Read the Names Of
Jeju City Lights: Iho Tewoo Beach and Jeju Light Art Festa
Geomun Oreum and Manjanggul Lava Tube
Art and Nature in Seogwipo City (you're here!)
Jeju Olle: Udo Island
Jeju Olle: Gapado Island
Busan Accommodation: One Way Guesthouse
Where and What We Ate in Busan