While trying to come up with blogposts about my last South Korea trip, I came across photos of jajangmyeon (stir fried noodles in black bean sauce), bossam (pork belly), and jokbal (pig's feet) which ignited a frenzied search for those dishes in Cebu. Going through the labyrinth that is the internet, I somehow found my way to Han Guk Kwan's facebook page which wasn't updated at all. I dropped a message (asking if they had any of those dishes on the menu) on the off chance that they might read it. I salivated when they replied in the affirmative. And my mouth became a faucet when they said they had a lunch promo for jajangmyeon and bossam!
A bowl of dubu jjigae (tofu stew) and a plate of bossam and kimchi
I rarely go out of the office for lunch but the only way to turn off the leaky faucet on my face was to stuff it with these dishes. I just had to go out and drag some officemates to help gorge on a bowl of jajangmyeon (lunch promo Php 100; regular price is Php 200) and bossam (lunch promo Php 250, bossam comes with a bowl of rice and a bowl of tofu stew). It was worth the over break that day!
On the way back to work, I was already planning to go back to Han Guk Kwan to try the other dishes I had picked from their extensive menu: jokbal (pig's feet), dakdoritang (spicy chicken stew), and godeungeo jorim (spicy braised mackerel). A serving can feed two to three persons. Who wants to go with me?
(Their lunch promo is only for jajangmyeon and bossam. Note that the serving size for their lunch promo is good for one person only. On the regular menu, most dishes are good for two to three persons.)
Han Guk Kwan Korean Restaurant
Mahogany Court, Archbishop Reyes Avenue, Cebu City
0906 308 2020 / 0932 608 1408 / (032) 516 8859 / (032) 231 1533
Open 24 hours daily
Directions to Jongmyo Shrine: Take subway line 1 to Jongno-3(sam)-ga Station, exit 11. Or subway line 2 or 5 to Jongno-3(sam)-ga Station, exit 8. Jongmyo Shrine is a 10-minute walk from any of the three options.
Jongmyo Shrine was founded in 1395 by King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty. For centuries, Jongmyo Shrine was where the Confucian ancestral rites—Jongmyo Jerye (royal ancestral rites) and Jongmyo Jeryeak (royal ancestral ritual music)—for the deceased kings and queens was held several times a year. It is also where their spirit tablets are enshrined. Nowadays, the ritual is only performed once a year, on the first Sunday of May.
It was a solemn tour around Jongmyo Shrine with only about a dozen guests. The structures in Jongmyo were plain and similar looking but it's the history and the ritual behind it that made it an interesting visit (thanks to the guide who spoke English well and encouraged visitors to ask questions). There are some countries that follow Confucianism, but it is only Korea that still performs this ritual.
Eventhough Jongmyo Shrine is open from 9AM to 530PM, visitors can only enter during scheduled tours. Purchase an admission ticket at least five minutes before the scheduled tour.
If you'd like to visit Jongmyo Shrine without a guide, you can do so anytime between opening hours on Saturdays and on the last Wednesday of every month. Added bonus on the last Wednesday of the month: free admission.
If you plan to visit Jongmyo Shrine and all four palaces (Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, and Deoksugung), get the combination ticket KRW 10,000. It will save you KRW 4,000.
Visit on the first Sunday of May to witness the Confucian ancestral rites being performed.
The Main Hall called Jeongjeon is where the spirit tablets of kings and queens are enshrined.
Yeongnyeongjeon or the Hall of Eternal Peace enshrines four generations of King Taejo's ancestors.
Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs 서울 선릉과 정릉
1 Seolleung-ro 100-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Tuesdays to Sundays 6AM to 9PM
(Opens 630AM November to February)
Admission Fee KRW 1000
Directions to Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs: Take Seoul subway line 2 or Bundang Line to Seolleung Station, exit 8. Walk about 5 minutes along Seolleung-ro, turn right to Seolleung-ro 100-gil to find the entrance to the park.
There are 18 Royal Tomb sites, and five of these are in Seoul. Of the five, I visited the Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs (also known as Seongjeongneung Royal Tombs), which is located in the same park and can be reached via a subway ride (for the other Royal Tombs around Seoul, one has to take the subway and bus).
Seolleung is the tomb of King Seongjong, the 9th ruler of Joseon Dynasty, and his third queen, Queen Jeonghyeon. Jeongneung is the tomb of King Jungjong, the second son of King Seongjong, thus the 11th ruler of Joseon Dynasty. (King Jungjong's first queen, Queen Dangyeong, is buried in Olleung Royal Tomb in Gyeonggi Province, which is not open to the public. His second queen, Queen Munjeong, is buried in Taereung Royal Tomb in Seoul.)
The tombs all look similar: it has a red spiked gate that marks the start of a stone path (the king's road on the right, and a slightly elevated spirit's road on the left—no man should walk on the spirit road!), which leads to a shrine where the ancestral rites are held. There is also a small shed where tombstones inscribed with the deceased royalty's achievements are kept. Then a small hill where the burial mound, surrounded by stone figures and a low stone wall, is.
Of the three burial mounds at Seongjeongneung, the burial mounds of Queen Jeonghyeon and King Jungjong can only be viewed from below the small hill where I didn't really see anything but grass and, if I made like a giraffe, heads of some stone figures. The burial mound of King Seongjong though, I did see up close, because it had a small viewing area off to the side of the wall that surrounds the burial mound.
Clockwise from top left: Red spiked gate of Jeongneung Royal Tomb, burial mound of King Jungjong, the ceremonial area in Seolleung, burial mound of King Seongjong
King Seongjong's burial mound
Here's a map of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Seoul: